DTM Oil Cooler Hoses
- doc
- Site Admin
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DTM Oil Cooler Hoses
I'm researching alternatives for my oil cooler to block hoses on the T4 with DTM. I measure a hose length of 30". Does this seem correct to others who have gone before?
I'd like to make these hoses look nice, since they show, but Jake mentions that stainless steel will rub the fiberglass shroud and create wear. Any experience here? I see pictures of folks with ss lines.
Is there a preferred routing for the hoses? I have seen "behind the carbs" and "around the carbs". Any real differences?
Any good looking setups to consider besides ss w/AN fittings? How about that fabric covered hose that has designs in the fabric weave? Any creative thoughts?
doc
I'd like to make these hoses look nice, since they show, but Jake mentions that stainless steel will rub the fiberglass shroud and create wear. Any experience here? I see pictures of folks with ss lines.
Is there a preferred routing for the hoses? I have seen "behind the carbs" and "around the carbs". Any real differences?
Any good looking setups to consider besides ss w/AN fittings? How about that fabric covered hose that has designs in the fabric weave? Any creative thoughts?
doc
- Ephry73
- Posts: 3369
- Joined: Fri Mar 02, 2001 12:01 am
Get fabric coated oil hoses and AN fittings. looks superb, and does the trick, without rubbing and scarring your DTM. Around the carbs is longer. I like them in front of the shroud.
The shorter the hose, the safer I feel. You may be able to use steinless teel hoses, and just use a bigger rubber hose where the SS lines could rub against the shrud, to isolate them. Just a thought.
E
The shorter the hose, the safer I feel. You may be able to use steinless teel hoses, and just use a bigger rubber hose where the SS lines could rub against the shrud, to isolate them. Just a thought.
E
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MASSIVE TYPE IV
- Posts: 20132
- Joined: Fri Jul 07, 2000 12:01 am
You can use S/S hoses, just route them behind the carb on the left side away from the shroud. They can rub clear through it in 3 months time, Joe was big on this and I concur with his recommendations.. If you run them in front there is no way to keep the lines off the shroud and keep them looking "Clean".
If you route it behhind the carb the hoses will need to be 36" instead of 30-
Earls and Aeroquip both make some very nice rubber hose and the barbs on the DTM fittings are very aggressive and hold tons of pressure.
Stainless hose is not what everyone thinks it is, I have had customers make their own hoses and KILL their engine because ONE fragment of the stainless braid got into the oil and went straight to the rear main bearing. This has now happened twice, both times the exact same way. If you use them clean them out with carb cleaner and flush them 5 times before install.
The other issue is with arcing, especially near the dizzy... The rubber inside many of the hoses is much softer than non braided hose... So IF you have an arc hit the shielding it can cause the hose to blow, and I have had it happen to me in the middle of the Desert before...
Most true aviation hoses are teflon inside with swedged on ends, much different than the stuff you buy through Summit or Earls..
Do as you wish, those are my concerns...
If you route it behhind the carb the hoses will need to be 36" instead of 30-
Earls and Aeroquip both make some very nice rubber hose and the barbs on the DTM fittings are very aggressive and hold tons of pressure.
Stainless hose is not what everyone thinks it is, I have had customers make their own hoses and KILL their engine because ONE fragment of the stainless braid got into the oil and went straight to the rear main bearing. This has now happened twice, both times the exact same way. If you use them clean them out with carb cleaner and flush them 5 times before install.
The other issue is with arcing, especially near the dizzy... The rubber inside many of the hoses is much softer than non braided hose... So IF you have an arc hit the shielding it can cause the hose to blow, and I have had it happen to me in the middle of the Desert before...
Most true aviation hoses are teflon inside with swedged on ends, much different than the stuff you buy through Summit or Earls..
Do as you wish, those are my concerns...
- doc
- Site Admin
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- Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 2:38 pm
Thanks, Jake. Great info. That gives me a pretty good feel for the considerations. I thought about dropping by the local airport store and seeing what they have.
I'm just trying to move past black. I'll look into the "better looking" rubber hoses and there is also the idea of some kind of wrap for the lines.
Any other ideas?
doc
I'm just trying to move past black. I'll look into the "better looking" rubber hoses and there is also the idea of some kind of wrap for the lines.
Any other ideas?
doc
- doc
- Site Admin
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- samcat
- Posts: 1088
- Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2001 12:01 am
You can get plastic brading in a huge range of colours and sizes.. Suitable for use on oil hose.. Then some heatshink on each end to keep it from fraying too much.. Could be made to look very nice....doc wrote: I'm just trying to move past black. I'll look into the "better looking" rubber hoses and there is also the idea of some kind of wrap for the lines.
BUT
I prefer to be able to see/feel the condition of my hoses.. once every 2-3 months I check for damage/splits starting by feel and by using a bright torch and a mirror.. I had a fuel hose rub through years ago and fuel was pouring onto the exhaust, big cloud of fuel 'steam' coming off the back of the car. Nothing bad happened but upon closer inspection all the fuel hose was in poor shape!
Function first, looks second.
Sam C
ʇɐɔɯɐs
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MASSIVE TYPE IV
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- Kafer_Mike
- Posts: 503
- Joined: Fri Oct 04, 2002 1:01 am
The Earl's Pro-Lite hose is real nice, but a little pricey...

"Pro Lite 350 hose has a tough, abrasion resistant nylon sheathing, bonded to the textile inner braid embedded in the synthetic rubber liner making it the highest pressure, lightweight hose available. The hose has incredible flexibility while maintaining the ability to withstand high vacuum and hot oil temperatures. Pressure ratings of 350 psi and operating temperature range of -40°F to +300°F."
I have a T1 DTM, so I don't have the external oil cooler lines, but I do have SS braided hose coming off my breather box. I used a couple insulated p-clips to keep the hoses tight to the firewall and away from the shroud.


"Pro Lite 350 hose has a tough, abrasion resistant nylon sheathing, bonded to the textile inner braid embedded in the synthetic rubber liner making it the highest pressure, lightweight hose available. The hose has incredible flexibility while maintaining the ability to withstand high vacuum and hot oil temperatures. Pressure ratings of 350 psi and operating temperature range of -40°F to +300°F."
I have a T1 DTM, so I don't have the external oil cooler lines, but I do have SS braided hose coming off my breather box. I used a couple insulated p-clips to keep the hoses tight to the firewall and away from the shroud.

"Build 'em fast...or let 'em sit"
- samcat
- Posts: 1088
- Joined: Tue Jun 12, 2001 12:01 am
Ditto.doc wrote:I like the insulated p-clip idea.
doc
I have found a source for them in the UK, and I already have some plastic ones that I use for my wiring in the bug.
MASSIVE TYPE IV wrote:Want a job?Function first, looks second.
That ethos comes from my programming background.. Some of the formally trained software 'engineers' like to make it look pretty first! Personally I would rather it worked right first, then worry about the looks afterwards.
Cya,
Sam C
ʇɐɔɯɐs