411/412 racecar pictures

Discuss with fans and owners of the most luxurious aircooled sedan/wagon that VW ever made, the VW 411/412. Official forum of Tom's Type 4 Corner.
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Wally
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Post by Wally »

Lahti411 wrote:Here's more pics:
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2993318

I've been drooling for this car since i first saw these photos. Pity the owner hasn't updated the project pages for a while now.
Thanks! It is so refreshing to see something created like that!
T4T: 2,4ltr Type 4 Turbo engine, 10.58 1/4 mi
www.apfelbeck.nl
"Mine isn't turbo'd to make a slow engine fast, but to make a fast engine insane" - Chip Birks
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MGVWfan
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Post by MGVWfan »

How'd he get that Porsche dashboard in there? It looks like it was made for the car! And that 911 engine :shock: , oh boy, makes me drool!
Lane
73 VW 412 (the Nomad, dropped valve seat land now, argh!)
67 MGB (Abingdon's Finest)
76 Plymouth Duster /6 (runs like a top)
99 New Beetle 2.0 (never gives any trouble)
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Hulken
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Post by Hulken »

He says it looks like it's made for the 412, only 1cm misfit in the middle...
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herr_sparky
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Post by herr_sparky »

hmm...threaded strut bodies...nice. i've always thought the front end would look bitchin with some kind of dam/valance; solve the chin-less look...very inspiring
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vwfye
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Post by vwfye »

wow! that is a nice subtle, yet radical change to the nose!
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funkSoulP
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Post by funkSoulP »

func412 wrote:Oil jet setup beginning. It looks like this:

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Here is the issue:

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You see what I mean.
How did you solve the problem with cyl.3 oil spray? Any reason the sprays are in the lower part of the cylinder, like easier to route to oil flow? I planned to put the oil nozzles higher on mine, however I have not yet done any detailed plans.
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func412
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Post by func412 »

I was thinking the piston when I made the holes for nozzles. now the spray should aim under the piston, not the wrist pin.

I have an idea to solve the problem. Welding so near bearing housing was too risky, so I´m going to make a special part from TYP4 pushrod. I´m going to make threads to the pushrod and to the case. That way I´m trying to make an oil line to that nozzle. I´ll show you the pictures soon.
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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood »

Thats exactly kind of what I have been working on. My case has four small holes bored in the top of the case. I have threaded inserts in the case an am using grade 10.9 threaded rod that is "gun-drilled" (hollow) except for a few mm at the end. I will then be drilling small countersunk orifices in the end of each threaded rod. I will be installing an oil line ring around the top of the outside of the case. It will feed all four jets. The jets can be unscrewed and re-indexed at will and it will take no oil from the mains. Ray
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Piledriver
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Post by Piledriver »

I was going to say ray had a reall nice external setup, but he beat me to it :lol:

One nice thing about teh external is you can put it on a relief valve setup, maybe 5-10 PSI, and have it NOT spray if the oil pressure is too low.
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func412
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Post by func412 »

Sounds good!

The oil jets I use has the pressure valves built in.
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raygreenwood
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Post by raygreenwood »

I'm not too far off testing it. I have a real question about what orifice sizes to use. If they are large enough...I can buy precison orifices to insert into a "notch" in the bolt. If they are smaller.....I will be drilling them.....which you know is hard, tedious work and breaks lots of small bits.

I am just starting on doing the mods on this case for full flow oil. I have not decided exactly where I am going to full the feed oil for this oiler system....but I am thinking of pulling from remote oil cooler return. If I use an oil thermostat to keep from feeding oil to the cooler until its warmed up......it will also nicely, not feed the pistons either until the oil is warmed up.

I guess I need to go ahead and drill a spare hollow bolt with several different orifice sizes and use my pressurized can to test how much oil flow comes out...and how much pressure drop it creates.

Once I get the tubes drilled....and do a pressurized test I can see where the oil spray is aimed and index everything. At that point I will take some pictures of it working.

The hardest part of starting this was deciding where to drill the holes in the top of the case. (a) They had to not interfere with plenum or components (b) they had to be close to the spigot and not too close to the rods or crank cheeks (c) I am very leery about drilling holes in the top of thecase. Originally I was going to use 8mm bolts. Easy to drill out. But...That would mean a 10mm threaded insert in the case. I'm worried about weakening anything. So I am playing with 6mm threaded rod with a 2mm bore. I had to took for spots that would miss any cast ribs or strengthening spots in the case. Two of the tubes will be quite angled.

I have solid spacers for my rockers built out of bronze blocks. I was thinking of feeding those bronze blocks with oil from a 3mm tube coming off of this ring. Ray
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func412
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Post by func412 »

New images from the garage.

More welding...

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Then working on with some new ideas...

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Wally
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Post by Wally »

Lots of work, but well spend! Does look kinda familiar though... :roll:
I like the variant rear side grills 8)
T4T: 2,4ltr Type 4 Turbo engine, 10.58 1/4 mi
www.apfelbeck.nl
"Mine isn't turbo'd to make a slow engine fast, but to make a fast engine insane" - Chip Birks
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ubercrap
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Post by ubercrap »

Beetle fender? Um...ew :(
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func412
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Post by func412 »

ubercrap wrote:Beetle fender? Um...ew :(
I have been thinking the same thing. This has been the hardest issue to solve. There was no way to fix the original fender edge and inner fender because of rust. It will not look like original anyway so this is what I´ll try first. I have to say the look is not that bad anyway when it has been fitted to right position. I´ll also weld the rear wing to chassis and to the feder permanently. We´ll see what happens :roll:
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