I was wondering if anyone else has had issues with the clutch tube that is welded in place all along the center channel. Mine is broken in three or four places. I am curious to see what diameter the tube is and what to use in its place.
I’m thinking about taking up the channel then re-welding in a new tube but I am not sure if there is any place that would sell the same size tube.
What has anyone else used if they had to perform these types of repairs?
Clutch Tube Broken - Repair
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david58
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This is from the off road forum.
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=109542
http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=109542
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
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Marc
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Whenever you need to find a new way to butcher a VW, that's always a good place to start looking...
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=99194
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=78368
Is it the tube itself which is broken? That's pretty rare - typically the tab breaks at the center weld (just below the e-brake lever pivot) and the resultant flexure of the tube eventully breaks the weld where the front of the tube is cradled in a cross-piece up by the pedals. At this point the clutch still works, but every stroke of the pedal evokes a scritchy sound and you can hear the tube flopping about in the tunnel. When the REAR weld (visible under the shift coupler access plate) finally breaks - and that takes a lot - the Bowden tube tension shoves the whole tube forward. Now the clutch cable is too long, but if you can adjust it up the car can still be driven, albeit with a lot of clutch chatter.
Typically repair is made by opening up a couple of flaps in the RH side of the tunnel (one at the center and one just aft of the pedals) for welding access.
If you really DO need to replace the whole tube and can't find a scrap car to salvage one from, steel tubing with a large enough I.D. will be a little too large on the O.D. for a Bowden tube to slip over (and to rest comfortably in the unaltered front cross-piece) so you'll need to turn down one or both ends.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=99194
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=78368
Is it the tube itself which is broken? That's pretty rare - typically the tab breaks at the center weld (just below the e-brake lever pivot) and the resultant flexure of the tube eventully breaks the weld where the front of the tube is cradled in a cross-piece up by the pedals. At this point the clutch still works, but every stroke of the pedal evokes a scritchy sound and you can hear the tube flopping about in the tunnel. When the REAR weld (visible under the shift coupler access plate) finally breaks - and that takes a lot - the Bowden tube tension shoves the whole tube forward. Now the clutch cable is too long, but if you can adjust it up the car can still be driven, albeit with a lot of clutch chatter.
Typically repair is made by opening up a couple of flaps in the RH side of the tunnel (one at the center and one just aft of the pedals) for welding access.
If you really DO need to replace the whole tube and can't find a scrap car to salvage one from, steel tubing with a large enough I.D. will be a little too large on the O.D. for a Bowden tube to slip over (and to rest comfortably in the unaltered front cross-piece) so you'll need to turn down one or both ends.