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http://i77.photobucket.com/albums/j47/k ... CN2757.jpg

I don't think I could but weld the wheelhouse; I don't have the skills.

I'm using Jason's 1967 restoration project as a guide. His photos show he does a lot of lap welds with sheetmetal screws. I'm getting my nerve up to replace the wheelhouses on my 1967. The photo is of the good side. The other side it quite bad but I don't have a photo. My plan is to cut out much of the old wheelhouse with a jigsaw and lap weld the new piece in. How much overlap is recommended? Half inch, one inch, two inches? Do you weld both sides of the overlaped metal?

TIA,

Kevin

hi Kevin,

Usually, when you lap weld, you would use a flanging tool. This would eliminate that small step. Looking at your pieces, I think they were made to be butt welded.

I did this section using butt welds...



You can see were I goofed, I had to add a 1/2" piece of metal because I cut to much away. It just gave me that much more practice

Also, remember to look for those sneaky spot welds. There are a few in the wheel housing.

I don't know if you have the capabilities, but, I used a 3", thin, cut-off, disc, mounted on my air die grinder, to cut out what you see above.

take your time, you'll get it

pete

Hi Pete,

I spent all day welding a new inner wheelhouse in. My welds don't look anything like yours. I'm using a Chicago Electric Easy Mig 101/1, a welder that doesn't use gas. After 8 or so hours of use it quit. The light is on and the wire moves freely if I pull it. But the motor doesn't come on when I press the handle trigger.

In the pamphlet/manuel I read: "The welder is provided with thermal protection. Should it activate, wait a few minutes as to let the unit cool down."

I'm hoping that's all it is. I badly misjudged my cut for the wheelhouse and have spent all day trying to mend and hide my mistakes. I'll post photos when it's done.

Kevin