emergency flasher switch

[JimA]

1970 bug. Do I need an emergency flasher switch to run the turn signals, or can I just bypass the switch? Any schematics out there?

[ashman40]

Two sites that list wiring diagrams for most models are:

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/wiringt1.php
http://www.vintagebus.com/wiring/index.html

I might also suggest Speedy Jim's site. Lots of great info there.
http://www.nls.net/mp/volks/htm/elec.htm

The simple answer to your question is, "Yes" you can bypass the Emergency Flasher switch to power the turn signals. But there are some things to be concerned w/
- The E-Flasher circuit passes thru the E-Flasher switch twice. If you are replacing it, you will need to take this into account.
- The E-Flasher Switch acts like a safety. When the E-Flashers are on the turn signal to ignition circuit is cut. W/o this safety, energizing the turn signal circuit will also energize your ignition circuit. So splitting the E-Flasher switch and the turn signal could allow someone to turn on the E-Flashers and start your car w/o the key. You could also burn out your points/coil if you left the E-Flashers running for a long time.
- The E-Flasher circuit and turn signal circuits run off different fuses. Turn signal circuit is shared since you only need to drive half the lights. E-Flasher fuse is dedicated to only the flashers since you need to drive ALL lights.
- Missing an E-Flasher means you won't pass inspection in most/all states.

You might benefit from the later style of wiring diagram. It shows the actual circuit flows better:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/inf ... wiring.jpg
Look at columns 38-45 for the E-Flasher + Turn Signal circuits.

[MNAirHead]

Great comprehensive answer.. thanks for the fast info.

[JimA]

Thanks. Weird how the ignition goes through the hazards. I went a ahead and hooked up the hazard switch. Now everything works but the hazards themselves and the headlights. Turn signals, break lights, running lights all work.

[Speedy Jim]

Ashman wasn't saying that Ignition goes "through" the Hazards switch;
rather that the Hazard switch prevents "feedback" into the Coil circuit.
------------------

That aside, use a voltmeter to find out why the Headlights don't work.
See if there is 12V on the thick Wh/Blk wire with Headlight switch on.

For Hazards, check for 12V on Terminal #30 on the Hazard switch
with Hazards switched On.

Post back and we can go from there.

[JimA]

Oh OK. I don't know this stuff. I've put a whole new harness in myself and have had to learn along the way. So I've got everything including the hazard switch in. I have turn signals, running lights, tail lights, brake lights, but no headlights or emergency flashers... Fuses are good. I don't have any power coming to the headlights. How can I tell if my brand new light switch is bad?

[Speedy Jim]

Ah. More info.

This is a wild guess, but see if the new switch has a terminal marked "X".
If so, it's for later years and must be jumpered to #30.

If no "X", check voltage on thick Wh/Blk wire (#56).

[JimA]

It does have an "x"! My schematic shows 3 each #30s. My switch only has two. So I must have assmued wrong. So if the schematic shows 3 #30s, but my switch only has two #30s, how do I hook it up to my 70 bug? This is what I have:

#56 => dimmer relay
#30 => regulator
#30 => ignition
(These two #30s are on the same post)
#58b => speedo lights
#58 => fuse box
#x => fuse box

So what do I hook up?

[Speedy Jim]

On the VintageBus link,
Download this one:
1970 1600 USA de Y

You'll have to splice the Red wires together and connect them to
one of the #30 terminals on the switch. Do a proper job of splicing
as all the power to the front of the car goes thru the Red wire...

Then, jumper #30 to "X".

As a historical note- Terminal "X" was added to switch off the
Headlights (and wiper) when the key was Off and during starting,
to save battery power.

You may wind up solving the hazards not working too.

[JimA]

Ok I think I understand... Every wire that comes into the switch into the #30 terminals must be spliced together. So where the schematic you referred me to has three #30s, and my switch has two #30s and an "x", all three are wired together. Correct?

[Speedy Jim]

Correct.

[JimA]

Cool. I'll try that and let you know. I REALLY apreciate your help!!!

[JimA]

OK that worked. I went to the auto parts store and bought some chairs because I didn't want to splice the wires in. I hooked everything up per your instructions but nothing worked. I started looking at my relays (all new from WW) and as I grabbed the dimmer relay and lifted, I heard a sound and the headlights came on. I turned it over, heard a noise like something was loose inside, and the lights went out. Turn it again and they came on...

So I'll buy a new dimmer tomorrow. But you guys are genuises! Thanks again!

[Speedy Jim]

I went to the auto parts store and bought some chairs

??



Well, glad you found the problem in that relay.
Good sleuthing.

[Marc]

When using the `71-up ("X" Terminal) light switch with a pre`71 ignition switch, be sure that you connect the original beefy Term 30 wire to X since it must handle headlamp current, along with the heavy Term 30 wire that feeds the rest of the electrical system. The 30 Terminal on the late light switch only has to handle tail/parking/dash lamp current, so the wire feeding it can be smaller.
Even better, replace one switch or the other so that they "match" and wire appropriately.