ShopTalk Forums | Aircooled VW Tech & Restoration Help

I would like to remove the fresh air box from under my hood and I realized that this would leave a large hole for rain to run under my hood(and on to my stereo ). I want to get rid of the box to make room for wiring/amp/head etc. Does anybody know of an easy way to delete the hole. Any ideas would be appreciated.

I'm guessing you're meaning without a welder?

Most folks either move to a different hood or weld it shut.

The only thing is I don't want to hurt the paint job. The color was a back of the store room mix of multiple grays/silvers/pewters so I know I can't match it and I don't really want to repaint.

Buz.. you're kind of stuck.. for it to totally seal, something has to be mechanically connected

I may have a plan involving fiberglass. After spending some time thinking about it. I can probably get a decent look and get water proofing. I'll fiberglass a sheet of cloth onto the bottom and slowly fill up the area with fiberglass fill. Probably multiple layers so it won't get too hot. I think this'll work.

You'll still have to paint. .. if this is the case, steel may be your best choice.

With such a visible point, I'd hate to see expansion cracks from the 2 materials.

Thought of a 2nd option.

In the 70s there were some small scoops designed to "divert air" into the grille.

You could paint one of these flat black.. fill the front and bond it to your hood.

Would give it a semi-custom ricer look.

T.

That's a good idea, if you can stomach the look
http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/186490.jpg
I see a couple for sale today at theSamba classifieds...people seem to be pretty proud of these nowadays, I can remember when they wouldn't bring $5 at a swap meet.

Actually you should be able to match any color quite easily. Most proffessional paint shops use a Dupont/X-rite spectrodensitometer or colorimeter to read paint. It will discount for gloss...and break the color into exact spectral data and can give exact paint formulas in dozens of paint systems.

It costs about $35-50 for this service is makes paint matches from anything accurate to within about 1%.

This same tool (made by X-rite for about $10,000 each)...is used by all proffesional printers, plastic casting, aircraft companies, auto companies and plastic molding companies to give exact color matches from scratch and to control process color every day.
I have three of them in my lab. The technology has been around since 69 ...and is quite perfected in its current form. Only in the past 1o years or so has it made its way into car paint shops.

MNAirHead wrote:You'll still have to paint. .. if this is the case, steel may be your best choice.

With such a visible point, I'd hate to see expansion cracks from the 2 materials.

Actually I was thinking about fiberglassing the underside of the hood. This would seal off water from entering the hood area. I am pretty sure this will work and if it's nice this PM I am going to mock up how it would look.

A BIG BUMP for Lew

How about instaling the hoodscoop with a block off plate sandwiched between it and the hood??
Install the scoop backwards and install a couple of guages in it??

I put duct tape over mine

With fiberglass you are going to end up trapping water and causing rust one day..Might take a long time but it will happen eventually. They make panel adhesives that are supposed to be stronger that welding. Maybe there is a way you can glue the vent up so no water can get through to the dash. Or maybe back it with some metal and glue it down then?? If you glue the vent together you need to make sure if any water gets in it can drain somehow.