Newb here. I'm used to using a rattle can or Binks gun at best where you have some control over the spray pattern but it's still kind of course.
I see airbrush art that's so detailed - how much skill/practice does it take to be able to control the airbrush to that level? Or is it pretty much all in the nozzle and/or tip pressure?
Thanks,
Air Brushing - How Difficult?
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11907
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
The actual ins and outs of learning to use and control an airbrush...meaning tapering and trailing off and trigger control...are not that hard to learn. Its one of the easiest artist tools to get the basics of.
That being said...getting a good airbrush...one that can handle heavy viscosity solvent based paints like automotive paints...and have good control and not be complex and/or rickety and needing seal rebuilds all the time ...will set you back a bit.
I do not paint autos with any of mine...but have used some similar enamels like model enamels. The viscosity limits you to how fine fo detail you can get...because you have to select a needle and tip that are course enough to atomize the paint.
iwould bet that those who airbrush cars for a living actually use somethingh eavier than an airbrush...like a small high wquality touch up gun.....or they are great artists at thinning auto paint...and then spraying layers to get the opacity they need.
There are several baseline types of airbrush....many different brands and quality levels.
The most basic and easiest and cheapest to start with...is a single action airbrush. The trigger only moves one direction...up and down like a pushbutton. the only control you have is how hard you push that button to release air...so you have basic stop/start air volume control. If you want to change teh actual volume of paint being applied...you reach to teh back of the airbrush and twist the knob that moves the needle in and out...increasing volume of fluid flow.
These are not beginners air brushes...they are fine instruments...but are easiest for beginners because your finger control only has to to one thing at a time....start or stop air flow....paint volume is controlled seperately from a seperate control.
The next is called a double action brush. The trigger can be depressed to make airflow/spray...and the same trigger can simultaneously be pulled forward and backward to slide teh sneedle in and out to increase and decrease volume. You get the most control...but need teh most practice.
Feathering or shading is a matter of lifting the brush farther from tehsurface as you simultaneously slide teh needle forward to decrease volume...and then release the trigger to stop paint flow.
A decently made but cheapy air brush...can run from $50 for a single action Badger or Pasche brand....or $100-150 for a beginner to intermediate Badger or Pasche.
Other models found in brands ranging from Badger, Pasche, Iwata and olympia...can range to several hundred dollars.
You will need either a regulator and air filter/desicant to run from your existing large compressor...to regulate down to 30-45 psi....or you will need a decent oiless dipahram small airbrush compressore. Count on needing 1.5 cfm per min at 35 psi. Ray
That being said...getting a good airbrush...one that can handle heavy viscosity solvent based paints like automotive paints...and have good control and not be complex and/or rickety and needing seal rebuilds all the time ...will set you back a bit.
I do not paint autos with any of mine...but have used some similar enamels like model enamels. The viscosity limits you to how fine fo detail you can get...because you have to select a needle and tip that are course enough to atomize the paint.
iwould bet that those who airbrush cars for a living actually use somethingh eavier than an airbrush...like a small high wquality touch up gun.....or they are great artists at thinning auto paint...and then spraying layers to get the opacity they need.
There are several baseline types of airbrush....many different brands and quality levels.
The most basic and easiest and cheapest to start with...is a single action airbrush. The trigger only moves one direction...up and down like a pushbutton. the only control you have is how hard you push that button to release air...so you have basic stop/start air volume control. If you want to change teh actual volume of paint being applied...you reach to teh back of the airbrush and twist the knob that moves the needle in and out...increasing volume of fluid flow.
These are not beginners air brushes...they are fine instruments...but are easiest for beginners because your finger control only has to to one thing at a time....start or stop air flow....paint volume is controlled seperately from a seperate control.
The next is called a double action brush. The trigger can be depressed to make airflow/spray...and the same trigger can simultaneously be pulled forward and backward to slide teh sneedle in and out to increase and decrease volume. You get the most control...but need teh most practice.
Feathering or shading is a matter of lifting the brush farther from tehsurface as you simultaneously slide teh needle forward to decrease volume...and then release the trigger to stop paint flow.
A decently made but cheapy air brush...can run from $50 for a single action Badger or Pasche brand....or $100-150 for a beginner to intermediate Badger or Pasche.
Other models found in brands ranging from Badger, Pasche, Iwata and olympia...can range to several hundred dollars.
You will need either a regulator and air filter/desicant to run from your existing large compressor...to regulate down to 30-45 psi....or you will need a decent oiless dipahram small airbrush compressore. Count on needing 1.5 cfm per min at 35 psi. Ray
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doc
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3586
- Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 2:38 pm
I'm 2 airbrushes ahead of you and, with certainty, can say that it takes years/decades to develop the kind of technical and artistic skill to do fine airbrush work. If you're not Rembrandt to start, you're at a big disadvantage.
That said, there is some good news. First, it's really fun to mess around with the airbrush. After just a little practice, you can easily get to the level of being able to fill in paint chips and make small (and probably not perfect) repairs. This turns out to be a useable skill.
It also turns out that many airbrush works are really created by technique and don't depend much on your artistic skills. For instance, one can use stencils and by varying the placement of the stencil slightly can create reasonable drop shadow effects the first time you try. Stencils - yea, it's kind of cheating, but they are quite effective and cheap. Or make your own. The pros use them. Point is doing this kind of airbrushing depends more on learning the technique (pretty easy) and a little practice than on freehand art.
How about pinstripping? It's a whole different deal with cool tools and I understand one can get "decent" pretty quickly. Here again, you will be using just a few "learned and practiced" techniques to create more complicated looking art.
The first airbrush I bought was a $10 Harbor Freight unit. It is quite adequate for spot repairs, once you learn how to use it. However, I have a Pasche $100 airbrush now that is night and day easier to use. Since I stink, I can't say it does better work.
If you are at all artistically inclined, I'll bet you'll enjoy trying. Keep us posted.
Good luck,
doc
That said, there is some good news. First, it's really fun to mess around with the airbrush. After just a little practice, you can easily get to the level of being able to fill in paint chips and make small (and probably not perfect) repairs. This turns out to be a useable skill.
It also turns out that many airbrush works are really created by technique and don't depend much on your artistic skills. For instance, one can use stencils and by varying the placement of the stencil slightly can create reasonable drop shadow effects the first time you try. Stencils - yea, it's kind of cheating, but they are quite effective and cheap. Or make your own. The pros use them. Point is doing this kind of airbrushing depends more on learning the technique (pretty easy) and a little practice than on freehand art.
How about pinstripping? It's a whole different deal with cool tools and I understand one can get "decent" pretty quickly. Here again, you will be using just a few "learned and practiced" techniques to create more complicated looking art.
The first airbrush I bought was a $10 Harbor Freight unit. It is quite adequate for spot repairs, once you learn how to use it. However, I have a Pasche $100 airbrush now that is night and day easier to use. Since I stink, I can't say it does better work.
If you are at all artistically inclined, I'll bet you'll enjoy trying. Keep us posted.
Good luck,
doc
Last edited by doc on Thu Apr 10, 2008 1:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11907
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
One of the widest ranges of airbrushes...and a site with the most descriptions ...including descriptions of several that can use "automotive paints"...is on the Iwata web site.
You can see from looking at teh easily 50 plus models that there are great subtle differences.....all the way up to something like a Pasche turbine brush...which uses an air driven turbine to produce unbeleievable atomization.
I agree spot with Doc. Thebasic technique of how to stop and start is really easy. Getting to be artistic....is something else entirely. It is akin to learning to draw with any tool. Ray
You can see from looking at teh easily 50 plus models that there are great subtle differences.....all the way up to something like a Pasche turbine brush...which uses an air driven turbine to produce unbeleievable atomization.
I agree spot with Doc. Thebasic technique of how to stop and start is really easy. Getting to be artistic....is something else entirely. It is akin to learning to draw with any tool. Ray
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doc
- Site Admin
- Posts: 3586
- Joined: Thu Mar 31, 2005 2:38 pm
I've had good luck with my HF airbrush. It's cheap compared to the Pasche, but is really just a knock off of the old technology that was used effectively for decades
The HF is harder to adjust than the more expensive brush and had to be adjusted right out of the box. Getting your setup right is critical, if you are not going to spring for a special compressor set up and the whole works. I use my regular compressor and I've jury rigged a way to control the pressure pretty finely. As I said above, it works fine for basic jobs. Perhaps not the game for artistic endeavors. But $10 (on sale) and a few little gizmos to get setup, close your eyes and you're von Dutch!
I've generally had really good luck with the HF stuff. Their $10 and $20 airtools are just an unbeatable value, if you are only a hobbyist like myself. I use my grinder for 15 minutes, once a month. I've had a couple of things crap out over the years, but all in all, HF will stay on my list.
I do regret buying my Mig welder from HF. It's about half the price of a Lincoln setup, still sbout $400, after you get all the gas stuff that's extra with HF. Although this welder works pretty well, it is infinitely inferior to any of the name brands due to the antiquated wire feed system that is completely unforgiving of the welder. If you do anything that impedes the wire feeding through, it knots up. It's then a process of disassembly of the welder to get the wire straightened back out. Major, major PITA for a junior grade welder like me. I'd gladly give the other $400 today for the Lincoln welder.
Got a little off topic. Sorry.
doc
The HF is harder to adjust than the more expensive brush and had to be adjusted right out of the box. Getting your setup right is critical, if you are not going to spring for a special compressor set up and the whole works. I use my regular compressor and I've jury rigged a way to control the pressure pretty finely. As I said above, it works fine for basic jobs. Perhaps not the game for artistic endeavors. But $10 (on sale) and a few little gizmos to get setup, close your eyes and you're von Dutch!
I've generally had really good luck with the HF stuff. Their $10 and $20 airtools are just an unbeatable value, if you are only a hobbyist like myself. I use my grinder for 15 minutes, once a month. I've had a couple of things crap out over the years, but all in all, HF will stay on my list.
I do regret buying my Mig welder from HF. It's about half the price of a Lincoln setup, still sbout $400, after you get all the gas stuff that's extra with HF. Although this welder works pretty well, it is infinitely inferior to any of the name brands due to the antiquated wire feed system that is completely unforgiving of the welder. If you do anything that impedes the wire feeding through, it knots up. It's then a process of disassembly of the welder to get the wire straightened back out. Major, major PITA for a junior grade welder like me. I'd gladly give the other $400 today for the Lincoln welder.
Got a little off topic. Sorry.
doc
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11907
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
No problem!
Yes...if you are going to use your airbrush for long stints and fine work...spring for a good one. I have two. Both are 1980's vintage Badgers. One is a fine detaikl double action, the other a mid grade single action.
I bought spare needles and tips and air seperators for both so I have extra fine to heavy capability with both.
I had a Pasche general purpose brush for a while and used some through high school and college. the problem with the Pasche brushes...when the have seen a lot of use is this.....and Iwill give you a comparison of technology here:
(1) the most critical areas in an airbrush are where the head assembly...which holds the tip or seat that the needle seats in.....and the air director nozzle or aerator (that final outer screw on shield with perforations) screw against each other.
The spacing must be perfect....the holes must align exactly and the distance from holes in the outer aerator to the tip where teh needle seats...must be correct and perfect. This is the parts that causes the spray pattern to be atomized as the fluid meters off thetip of the needle.
On the Badgers...the machine work was excellent...but since these parts are chrome plated brass...over the years...overtightening of the outer aerator distorts the threads making the two parts out of adjustment to each other. Its just easiest to replace the outer shield every so often.
the Pasches have reputation for being better than anything...but that can be short lived. Many are built in italy. They are too heavy on teh chrome plating. Sometimes teh aerator head holes are not veryclean and teh holes are crusting from plating. As the plating starts to chip away between aerator and head...the brush will not seal up and does notwork properly. Its junk unless you do surgery...with sealing wax.
The Iwata and old Thayer and Chandler brushes use superior materials and are worth teh money.
(2) the internal needle and trigger seals. Badgers are as good as anyones. They have cheap replaceable teflon seal bushings. The trick is getting them stuffed in to just the right place for suction to be good.
Other brands have a range of Teflon and rubber.
You should shop around out there.
As Doc mentions ..a good servicable one for basic work and Touch up...can be had under $20.
If you really want to do art. Budget $150-200 for a good brush. Ray
Yes...if you are going to use your airbrush for long stints and fine work...spring for a good one. I have two. Both are 1980's vintage Badgers. One is a fine detaikl double action, the other a mid grade single action.
I bought spare needles and tips and air seperators for both so I have extra fine to heavy capability with both.
I had a Pasche general purpose brush for a while and used some through high school and college. the problem with the Pasche brushes...when the have seen a lot of use is this.....and Iwill give you a comparison of technology here:
(1) the most critical areas in an airbrush are where the head assembly...which holds the tip or seat that the needle seats in.....and the air director nozzle or aerator (that final outer screw on shield with perforations) screw against each other.
The spacing must be perfect....the holes must align exactly and the distance from holes in the outer aerator to the tip where teh needle seats...must be correct and perfect. This is the parts that causes the spray pattern to be atomized as the fluid meters off thetip of the needle.
On the Badgers...the machine work was excellent...but since these parts are chrome plated brass...over the years...overtightening of the outer aerator distorts the threads making the two parts out of adjustment to each other. Its just easiest to replace the outer shield every so often.
the Pasches have reputation for being better than anything...but that can be short lived. Many are built in italy. They are too heavy on teh chrome plating. Sometimes teh aerator head holes are not veryclean and teh holes are crusting from plating. As the plating starts to chip away between aerator and head...the brush will not seal up and does notwork properly. Its junk unless you do surgery...with sealing wax.
The Iwata and old Thayer and Chandler brushes use superior materials and are worth teh money.
(2) the internal needle and trigger seals. Badgers are as good as anyones. They have cheap replaceable teflon seal bushings. The trick is getting them stuffed in to just the right place for suction to be good.
Other brands have a range of Teflon and rubber.
You should shop around out there.
As Doc mentions ..a good servicable one for basic work and Touch up...can be had under $20.
If you really want to do art. Budget $150-200 for a good brush. Ray
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fusername
- Posts: 6806
- Joined: Sun Jan 28, 2007 11:26 am
the trick to hf is to have somone else buy the tool you need first, and then purchase based on thier reccomendations
give a man a watch and he'll allways know what time it is. give him two and he can never be sure again.
Things are rarely just crazy enough to work, but they're frequently just crazy enough to fail hilariously.
Things are rarely just crazy enough to work, but they're frequently just crazy enough to fail hilariously.
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FITNESSFORYOUTOO
- Posts: 176
- Joined: Sun Aug 05, 2007 7:34 pm
You can repair your HF welder to make it work as good as any Lincoln by changing out the cheap plastic coax inside the gun cable. Go buy whatever size metal coax goes with the wire you use, I used one from a Lincoln welder then feed it through your cable cut it to the right length and I bet you will love the way it welds now.doc wrote:I've had good luck with my HF airbrush. It's cheap compared to the Pasche, but is really just a knock off of the old technology that was used effectively for decades
The HF is harder to adjust than the more expensive brush and had to be adjusted right out of the box. Getting your setup right is critical, if you are not going to spring for a special compressor set up and the whole works. I use my regular compressor and I've jury rigged a way to control the pressure pretty finely. As I said above, it works fine for basic jobs. Perhaps not the game for artistic endeavors. But $10 (on sale) and a few little gizmos to get setup, close your eyes and you're von Dutch!
I've generally had really good luck with the HF stuff. Their $10 and $20 airtools are just an unbeatable value, if you are only a hobbyist like myself. I use my grinder for 15 minutes, once a month. I've had a couple of things crap out over the years, but all in all, HF will stay on my list.
I do regret buying my Mig welder from HF. It's about half the price of a Lincoln setup, still sbout $400, after you get all the gas stuff that's extra with HF. Although this welder works pretty well, it is infinitely inferior to any of the name brands due to the antiquated wire feed system that is completely unforgiving of the welder. If you do anything that impedes the wire feeding through, it knots up. It's then a process of disassembly of the welder to get the wire straightened back out. Major, major PITA for a junior grade welder like me. I'd gladly give the other $400 today for the Lincoln welder.
Got a little off topic. Sorry.
doc
BTW the inside of HF welders is made by the same company in France that makes the Miller welders.
I have a HF welder that is 25 years old now and it still welds great, I always use it instead of my big one for small jobs.