I know there are a Ton of Body Shops in the area, but my friend may not come back from Mexico to do the Body Work & Paint on my 72'
I'm not looking to spend a Fortune I guess thats my problem LOL
Is there any one Local or close to the Nashville, Clarksville TN area that does excellent body work and good paint for a reasonable price ??
I have C.C.C Hood, Deck Lid and Rear Fenders so that body work should be easy LOL, My roof is ruffed in and the sides need to be done.
Anyone know anyone good and reasonable please help a fellow VW'er out,
I will be ready soon for this work.
Thanks !
Anyone Do Paint & Body Local
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MNAirHead
- Posts: 9570
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badazzsentra
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 8:54 am
Damn things must be expensive in other areas LOL.
My friend who has been painting for 15 years was going to do my car for 1500 bucks only problem is he went home to Mexico and I'm not sure he is coming back this year??
Yes he is Legal hahaha he is just from there.
I could get my car done at a local body shop for around 2200 bucks, just was trying to stay in the 1500 and under area.
Really I just need a good "bug" body man, as it doesn't take much to find a decent painter.
Like I said my friend has the roof ruffed in, just need the sides done which are semi ruff, but the Creative Car Craft stuff, shouldn't need anything more than prep work.
Also I'm trying to stay Local !!
My friend who has been painting for 15 years was going to do my car for 1500 bucks only problem is he went home to Mexico and I'm not sure he is coming back this year??
Yes he is Legal hahaha he is just from there.
I could get my car done at a local body shop for around 2200 bucks, just was trying to stay in the 1500 and under area.
Really I just need a good "bug" body man, as it doesn't take much to find a decent painter.
Like I said my friend has the roof ruffed in, just need the sides done which are semi ruff, but the Creative Car Craft stuff, shouldn't need anything more than prep work.
Also I'm trying to stay Local !!
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doc
- Site Admin
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Airhead is correct. Unfortunately, the cost of quality paint these days is a big budget item.
I can think of a couple of cheap out methods for you to consider:
You do all body work. You're right. If you have "new" fiberglass parts, they should not take too much work to get ready for paint. The rest of the original car, however, is likely to need dozens of hours of priming and fixing and endless sanding. Assuming that you can access paint spray equipment, shooting primer is a snap. Anybody can do it. Once you have the car ready for paint, you can either take it to a pro (still not cheap, but a lot less if all bodywork done) or you can take it to one of the cheapo "one step paint places ($500?) and get a decent looking (but maybe not long lasting) job or you can really take the leap and paint it yourself.
Bodywork is about 95% muscle. Spray primer on to fill low spots, then sand 90% of it off until the shape and flatness is where you want it. Certainly, as one gets to the very end of the prep process, there are some judgements that only experienced pros can really make. It becomes "how flat is flat?" at the end. But, it is surprising how good a job one can do with time and patience. It's a lot of work, but it'll keep many thousands of dollars in your bank account.
doc
I can think of a couple of cheap out methods for you to consider:
You do all body work. You're right. If you have "new" fiberglass parts, they should not take too much work to get ready for paint. The rest of the original car, however, is likely to need dozens of hours of priming and fixing and endless sanding. Assuming that you can access paint spray equipment, shooting primer is a snap. Anybody can do it. Once you have the car ready for paint, you can either take it to a pro (still not cheap, but a lot less if all bodywork done) or you can take it to one of the cheapo "one step paint places ($500?) and get a decent looking (but maybe not long lasting) job or you can really take the leap and paint it yourself.
Bodywork is about 95% muscle. Spray primer on to fill low spots, then sand 90% of it off until the shape and flatness is where you want it. Certainly, as one gets to the very end of the prep process, there are some judgements that only experienced pros can really make. It becomes "how flat is flat?" at the end. But, it is surprising how good a job one can do with time and patience. It's a lot of work, but it'll keep many thousands of dollars in your bank account.
doc
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BUILDER
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- Joined: Sat Jan 05, 2008 4:55 pm
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MNAirHead
- Posts: 9570
- Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2003 6:12 am
Doc is spot on.
For a $1500 budget, you really want to assume the responsiblity of doing your own rust removal and priming.
Any bodyshop that is reputable will not guarantee results when you're prepping.
One of the considerations is to have YOU supply the paint etc. You really want to ensure that the materials are all from the same system.
EQUIPMENT NOTE - Don't believe the hype
When reading forums etc, they always make it sound like you need a Bug-sized compressor and $1000000 paint gun.
For priming I commonly will use just small construciton compressors and a $15 gun..
For priming, the most important air tool is a good quality filter system.
I only fire up my 2x30 compressors and Sharpe gun when doing final color/clear.
For a $1500 budget, you really want to assume the responsiblity of doing your own rust removal and priming.
Any bodyshop that is reputable will not guarantee results when you're prepping.
One of the considerations is to have YOU supply the paint etc. You really want to ensure that the materials are all from the same system.
EQUIPMENT NOTE - Don't believe the hype
When reading forums etc, they always make it sound like you need a Bug-sized compressor and $1000000 paint gun.
For priming I commonly will use just small construciton compressors and a $15 gun..
For priming, the most important air tool is a good quality filter system.
I only fire up my 2x30 compressors and Sharpe gun when doing final color/clear.
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badazzsentra
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 8:54 am
BUILDER wrote:How far will you travel to get it done? I'm just north of scott county, Tn. and been doing body work/paint for 20+ years proffessionally. Depending on the condition I could probably hook you up for the $1500 range. Do you have pics? if you may be interested pm me for more details.
I am 50 Miles North of Nashville, TN right at the Fort Campbell, KY Line.
I would be willing to travel a little bit for the right quality work .
My car is off the pan and has been blasted with coal slag. I have one coat of Rust Bullet on the car as of now and want to put at least 2 more coats then it will have to sanded down and blocked and primered.
There is absolutely nothing in the car at all. My friend started to ruff the roof in with bondo, and like I stated above I have the C.C.C, hood, rear fenders, and deck lid, and may get the fronts if I can't fit my rims on the car.
I'll get some pics up.
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badazzsentra
- Posts: 35
- Joined: Tue Dec 11, 2007 8:54 am
I talked with Frank Ciglar at Rust Bullet today. He said they have a spray you can put on the Rust Bullet and it opens the pores and you can use a sandable primer and be done with it, until I am ready to paint.
So I will continue with the R.B. and then get the spray stuff and hit it with primer.
They also said R.B. can be used as a Primer if you do it within 72 hours. Also if it has been longer ,just get their spray stuff and open the pores, or get 150 grit and knock it down to get the adhesion.
So I will continue with the R.B. and then get the spray stuff and hit it with primer.
They also said R.B. can be used as a Primer if you do it within 72 hours. Also if it has been longer ,just get their spray stuff and open the pores, or get 150 grit and knock it down to get the adhesion.
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perrib
- Posts: 1891
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 1:00 pm
paint
This is what you can do mostly in your back yard:
My new project has about 200 hours worth of body and paint work so far. This is the reflection of neighbors car in thier garage in the drivers door of my Baja about 50 feet away in my drivers door. Its as it came out of the booth no sanding or buffing. I supplied the first 215 hours. At $50.00 per hour I saved $11,500. Body and Paint work is all labor. If you take your time
you can achieve similar results. When I thought I was done, I still primed and block sanded another 10 hours until I was satisfied. Then Jason ran over it with 800 grit to check my work and shot the three colors. I never asked how much. He charged me $700. I supplied the paint It was worth it. Even with nice shetmetal you will spend at leat 4 hours per panel priming and block sanding them. When you see nice paint jobs stop and ask who did them. Its the best way to find someone who will work with you.
This one is a closer reflection about 5 feet.
I will spend at least another 20 hours reassembling it.
My new project has about 200 hours worth of body and paint work so far. This is the reflection of neighbors car in thier garage in the drivers door of my Baja about 50 feet away in my drivers door. Its as it came out of the booth no sanding or buffing. I supplied the first 215 hours. At $50.00 per hour I saved $11,500. Body and Paint work is all labor. If you take your time
you can achieve similar results. When I thought I was done, I still primed and block sanded another 10 hours until I was satisfied. Then Jason ran over it with 800 grit to check my work and shot the three colors. I never asked how much. He charged me $700. I supplied the paint It was worth it. Even with nice shetmetal you will spend at leat 4 hours per panel priming and block sanding them. When you see nice paint jobs stop and ask who did them. Its the best way to find someone who will work with you.
This one is a closer reflection about 5 feet.
I will spend at least another 20 hours reassembling it.
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MNAirHead
- Posts: 9570
- Joined: Mon Sep 08, 2003 6:12 am
Re: paint
With a QUALITY polisher, you can cut this out.. OR Run with it.
This isn't bad.. new cars commonly come wikth this texture.
Tim
This isn't bad.. new cars commonly come wikth this texture.
Tim
perrib wrote:This is what you can do mostly in your back yard:
My new project has about 200 hours worth of body and paint work so far. This is the reflection of neighbors car in thier garage in the drivers door of my Baja about 50 feet away in my drivers door. Its as it came out of the booth no sanding or buffing. I supplied the first 215 hours. At $50.00 per hour I saved $11,500. Body and Paint work is all labor. If you take your time
you can achieve similar results. When I thought I was done, I still primed and block sanded another 10 hours until I was satisfied. Then Jason ran over it with 800 grit to check my work and shot the three colors. I never asked how much. He charged me $700. I supplied the paint It was worth it. Even with nice shetmetal you will spend at leat 4 hours per panel priming and block sanding them. When you see nice paint jobs stop and ask who did them. Its the best way to find someone who will work with you.
This one is a closer reflection about 5 feet.
I will spend at least another 20 hours reassembling it.
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perrib
- Posts: 1891
- Joined: Wed Oct 03, 2007 1:00 pm
orange peel
The paint flowed out nicely there is very little orange peel. The cars in the reflection are at a 90 degree angle to the door I think this and the sun caused the orange peel from hell effect. I posted it to how nice a back yard job can turn out. The sun is rough in Phoenix, Az. I don't like to color sand and buff my daily drivers since they sit outside 24/7 all year long the paint will start to fade in a year or two. Unsanded it will last five or six years. Badazzsentra won't have that problem since he has lots of trees for shade.