my oxyboxer project

Tronsobar · Post by **Tronsobar** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 2:57 am

Now I've moved house and cleared all my debts I can crack on with my oxyboxer build, at least start collecting parts for it

This is what I plan

2100cc
Dj 2.1 case (already got)
94mm p and b
Full flow, external mocal type cooler, thermo switch, mounted underneath between chasis rails
Early style non dog house shroud, no upright cooler in shroud (will this improve airflow over fins and heads?)
stock hydro cam, hydro lifters, bolt up rockers (advice needed)
76mm stock crank
I have some heads left over from my old 1776 that I can get machined
Heads ported to match the inlet and exhaust manifolds

Fuel injection, possibly golf cis, tb on a progressive manifold with type 3 manifold ends with the balance pipe bits modded to accept injectors, golf airbox because i have the bits already

My existing t25 ignition set up

Merged four into one header, not sure on box yet but nothing too big

Mounted to a 091 six rib 2.0ltr gear box

Basically, I want a strong engine for my panel van and I want it to look as stock as possible

What do you guys think to my plans? Any improvements or suggestions?

My main concern is where to get the machining work done

edited because i meant 76mm crank

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Tue Aug 05, 2008 11:22 pm

The stock 2.1 crank is 76mm. If you are going to use a early fan housing without a oil cooler I dont think you will get the air flow over the head on the 3-4 side as you mite think. With out a cooler inside the air does not move over the heads & P&Cs that well. I have ran a center mount set up on my dune buggy with a electric fan oil cooler it worked OK as far as oil temps. I make a oil cooler block so you can mount a dog house oil cooler in the stock bug location. You will need to find some one to move the head stud inserts in so you can run the 94mm P&Cs with your bug heads. www.rockyjennings.com I have done complete wbx to air blocks for customers all over the world. Thanks Rocky

Tronsobar · Post by **Tronsobar** » Wed Aug 06, 2008 7:18 am

thanks rocky, that's one of my questions answered

we did actually have an e-mail chat at the end of last year but am only now in a position to start organising things for the build

the pics on your site of mickey's car show an external oil filter, is that because of the header used?

pocketrocket · Post by **pocketrocket** » Wed Aug 06, 2008 9:26 am

He wanted to use a oberg filter the engine can be plumbed so you can retain the stock spin on filter. Thanks Rocky

Stripped66 · Post by **Stripped66** » Wed Aug 06, 2008 10:30 am

pocketrocket wrote:The stock 2.1 crank is 76mm. If you are going to use a early fan housing without a oil cooler I dont think you will get the air flow over the head on the 3-4 side as you mite think. With out a cooler inside the air does not move over the heads & P&Cs that well. I have ran a center mount set up on my dune buggy with a electric fan oil cooler it worked OK as far as oil temps. I make a oil cooler block so you can mount a dog house oil cooler in the stock bug location. You will need to find some one to move the head stud inserts in so you can run the 94mm P&Cs with your bug heads. www.rockyjennings.com I have done complete wbx to air blocks for customers all over the world. Thanks Rocky

If he wants to omit the "stock" oil cooler (in reference to the Type 1 cooling system, not the wasserboxer oiling system), he's better off using a doghouse shroud and welding up the duct to the oil cooler.

But I can vouch for Rocky's Type 1 oil cooler adapter; it works fantastic and I have no problems keeping the oil under 200 degrees with just the stock cooler out here in Las Vegas. IMO, one of the benefits of this modified oiling system is that oil doesn't bypass the cooler when under higher pressures like it does on the Type 1. Once my thermostat opens up, all oil goes through the cooler.