Dragster Trans/ gen questions

Hi-C · Post by **Hi-C** » Thu Sep 04, 2008 8:31 am

I purchased a VW powered dragster today and need some help getting it going. It currently has a regular VW trans flipped with an extension of some sort and a live axle setup. I have a build powerglide with a trans brake i'd like to put in with a nine inch rear. (i'll be bracket racing) I have found the plate for the trans to motor but not the flexplate adapter. What do guys do about that? Anyway what is this stuff and whats it worth? Wound I be better off holding on to this setup and running a stick or with the glide?

perrib · Post by **perrib** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 7:04 am

A power glide would work well with a 300+ hp turbo engine. The problem I see with the set up it has is the same one I had. If your going to run faster than 9.90 the axle will not pass NHRA tech as it apears pinned and not splined. Also if the frame has rusted it may not pass the sonic test for wall thickness besides multiple changes in the rule book since it was made.

Hi-C · Post by **Hi-C** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 8:18 am

I expected the rear axle setup would be a problem I am just bracket racing and I have the glide already. I figure it would be cheaper in the long run and I know the glide will be more consistent (E/T) with less maintenance. As far as a motor it might not get much of one to start, prolly closer to 200 than 300 horse. On the frame everything I could see looked excellent rust wise but i'll know more after this weekend.

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 9:39 am

My self and a few others currently run Powerglides behind our VW motors.
The easiest way to do it is to run a chromoly adapter hub (bolts to early SCAT or Bugpack flanged crank) and them just bolt an aftermarket flexplate to it.
I have all required parts in stock.

Hi-C · Post by **Hi-C** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 7:00 pm

Thanks Marty i maybe in touch with you on that if my new great idea doesn't work out. After taking some measurments I'm going to price out and see if my father could make me an 8 dowel press fit (like the weld-mate but not welded) adapter (held on with the gland nut) on the CNC mill and lathe where he works. Only problem I see with it is heat treating if needed and getting the depth right for the torque converter. If you have answers to either of these questions it would save me a great deal of time. This way I could run any VW crank and use a stock Chevy flexplate that's only $35-$100 with an SFI tag. Also if i have these made do you think there would be a market for them?

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 8:13 pm

Hi-C wrote:Thanks Marty i maybe in touch with you on that if my new great idea doesn't work out. After taking some measurments I'm going to price out and see if my father could make me an 8 dowel press fit (like the weld-mate but not welded) adapter (held on with the gland nut) on the CNC mill and lathe where he works.

I actually have one of those too. It works just fine. I also made an aluminum hob that goes inside (after the gland nut is on) for the torque converter snout - VERY important.

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Fri Sep 05, 2008 8:25 pm

8 dowel hub -

With converter snout support installed -

On Motor -

Flange crank adapter hub on motor -

Frallan · Post by **Frallan** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 10:41 am

Very nice!

I trashed a GB wedgemate flywheel once to build me a nice hub.
Now I am just about to do something like that again but seeing this, choice is clear.
How much for the hub?

Hi-C · Post by **Hi-C** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 1:14 pm

That looks very nice exactly how I imagined it. I've found an adapter plate on the chassis shop site for $200 can you get that item as well? or should I purchase it through them? After talking to my dad he is 100% sure he can make it but send me some prices if you could ([email protected]) it might be easier to just get the hub through you than going through the R/D on my end. Thanks for the great pictures by the way, I can't wait to get this thing running. Motor will be next.... Know anyone that needs SBC parts i've got a bunch...

Marty · Post by **Marty** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 4:08 pm

The Chassis Shop has not had or made those hubs in years so you are kind of SOL there.
My 8-dowell hub is a one-off and not for sale (although I might change my mind).

The flanged hubs are available.

Hi-C · Post by **Hi-C** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 6:51 pm

aright not for sale is OK, would a blue print be available? or at least the depth from face to face, flex plate to front of the crank (and how think your adapter is)? On the chassis shop do they still make the aluminum plate tranny to case? If not I'll have to track down bell housing patterns and make that too...

Hi-C · Post by **Hi-C** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:00 pm

As things are developing this little adapter is getting more and mroe complicated. Another friend of mine told me tonight he has a 4-71 blower he would donate to the project. After reading some of the problems people have had with the crank nose I though about putting the pulley in the adapter and running it up the back. Would there be any problem im not seeing with this other than it is a very odd setup?

Frallan · Post by **Frallan** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:21 pm

I propose you do as the top methanol guys have done on small blocks when they run blowers, the make a support stand with twin bearing and the pulley in between.
Now you will only have radial loads and no axial on the crank,.....if done correctly.
I say this because I am doing the same on my dragster engine.
It is one step more complex as I have the drive for the camshafts in between.
On the other hand, not so once you get the design clear in your head complicated but it will stick out quite far.
Not a good idea for a sedan where you wish to put a lid on top of it.

Frallan · Post by **Frallan** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:44 pm

I am looking for pictures but so far only this text.

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BRAND NEW SBC CRANK SUPPORT ASSM.Sbc crank support assm. This support has been designed to minimize the bending stress imposed on the snout of the crankshaft caused by harmonics and/or driving a supercharger. Few people realize just how much a crankshaft can distort during harmonics, or that supercharger belt load can be in excess of 3000 pounds when detonation occurs. With the supercharger belt pulling the crank snout upwards, and the first two piston and rod assembles pressing downward, this area of the crankshaft is in need of some additional support. By adding a crank snout support, in essence a sixth main bearing, the vulnerable unsupported snout has less chance of bending and breaking. Race engines, especially those prone to detonation, are the applications most in need of this support.
These crankshaft snout supports feature a unique hub which is completely machined from a single piece of heat treated chromoly steel billet. This insures that the end where the bearing mounts will run true with the end of the crankshaft. The hole in the center of the hub has a wall at mid point which allows a crank bolt to be used to attach the hub solidly to the crank snout. The hub also has dual .250” keyways on both ends so that the front can be used to drive another accessory such as a oil pump or starter jaw. The aluminum bracket and stand assembly that hold the front bearing mounts to either the front of the block or the front cover, depending on application. Kits include crank hub, mounting plates, stands, bearing, and hardware. RBS can set up the crank support to be used with crank trigger at an additional cost if desired. Fits 283,327,350,and most other aftermarket small block chevy engine combinations. SEE PICS AT WWW.RBSSUPERCHARGERS.COM
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I looked but found no details.
Maybe this will give you and idea.
http://www.kenlowe.com.au/99344-26001.htm
http://www.rcdengineering.com/crank_bs.html
This last one is very nice and clear.

Frallan · Post by **Frallan** » Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:54 pm

Here is some "hub drive porno" engineering.
I really enjoyed googling for this as you probably understood by my series of posts.
PSI description and solutions for the the top guys sounds very nice.
Good engineering!
http://www.psisuperchargers.com/viewcategory.php?id=21