ShopTalk Forums | Aircooled VW Tech & Restoration Help

Often the old balljoints are REALLY stuck on the arms, and require a lot of pressure to pop them off.

Except if you have a welder:

http://s117.photobucket.com/albums/o53/ ... joint3.flv

Nice, but why not use a ball joint press?

http://www.glenn-ring.com/temp/ball_joi ... ctions.pdf



You do it with the trailing arms still in the beam.

because in many cases, that's not enough to pop them loose.
One I had done with a commercial hydraulic press took 13 metric tons of pressure (28660 lbs) before it popped out with a loud bang. Yes it was pressed out straight too..

Jan

My experience has been the same as Jan's. The 12 ton press wouldn't touch them. Put them in a 20 ton press and "BANG" nooooo problem

ah, yes..thee old, weld the bearing race out of the hub trick...

Hey Lew here is the thread.

WTF? A press out and in job for balljoints require grinding and welding?

Looks like you just cooked the suspension arm. Not to mention saving some trees. That is just unneccessary use of electricity. I'd fire you on the spot if worked in my shop.

I have a 70 ton Dake press. I do not even feel the balljoint come out.

I just tried the grind and weld technique - worked like a charm! 3-minutes with the die grinder and 10-seconds with the welder per arm. I doubt the arm is getting that hot. I dunked them in water after welding and they didn't even fizz.

I'll take them to a shop to get new ball joints pressed in though, after some rust removal and paint.

Some great info in this thread.
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 16&start=0

The trailing arms, like most suspension pieces on most cars, are forgings and should NEVER be heated. I've never tried to rebuild a ball-joint front suspension so I have no expertise, but I DO know about forgings. I'll be learning how to change out the ball-joints on my '67 bug and will more than likely pull the arms from the tubes and take them somewhere - as Jeff in Auburn recommended.

cb77305 wrote:The trailing arms, like most suspension pieces on most cars, are forgings and should NEVER be heated.

The small amount of heat generated by welding the ID of the ball joint isn't enough to hurt the control arm.