Replacing Luggage Shelf and wheel wells

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EvilleT
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Replacing Luggage Shelf and wheel wells

Post by EvilleT »

I would like to replace the parts in yellow and green on my 67 type 1 but would do just the yellow if it is better my idea is to try to do it all at once if possible
Image







Here is the parts I was able to get from Avery's Air-Cooled in Woodland Washington. Again I have highlighted the areas in Yellow and Green. Any recommendations on how to get this done.

Image
Thanks
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perrib
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Post by perrib »

With the body off it would be easy to section. Try to plan your cuts so both sides of the welds can be primed. The more places you can splice at where the panels are spot welded the less panel warpage.
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EvilleT
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Post by EvilleT »

perrib wrote:With the body off it would be easy to section. Try to plan your cuts so both sides of the welds can be primed. The more places you can splice at where the panels are spot welded the less panel warpage.
Body is off. So do I just drill out spot welds on both and remove or do I just cut out then deal with spot welds? Finally can I go all the way down to the green areas?

Thanks
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perrib
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Post by perrib »

If you remove the majority of the luggage panel you will have much better access to the spot welds.
Poke around with a pick to see how bad the panel under the luggage panel (highlighted in green) that is bolted to the body is. If it is bad change it. Blair spot weld cutters are the best. Snap On Tools also sells Blair if your body shop supply company does not.
The replacement section should be welded with the body attached to the pan.
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EvilleT
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Post by EvilleT »

perrib wrote:If you remove the majority of the luggage panel you will have much better access to the spot welds.
Poke around with a pick to see how bad the panel under the luggage panel (highlighted in green) that is bolted to the body is. If it is bad change it. Blair spot weld cutters are the best. Snap On Tools also sells Blair if your body shop supply company does not.
The replacement section should be welded with the body attached to the pan.

Thanks again for the tips are you talking about an air-tool(Blair)? So you know I am a novice this is my first project. I have a Mig Welder, 4.5" grinder and basic tools that's about it.

Lastly I wanted to clarify I can remove the bad shelf with the body off the pan but need to put the body back on before I weld the shelf etc in.

Thanks
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

sorry about the delay.

yes.. fit the new replacement panel on your body.

"Blair" are the brand of "spot weld cutters" (specialty drill bits for removing spot welds)

Welcome to STF..
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EvilleT
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Some videos

Post by EvilleT »

Hopefully the videos speak for themselves if not here is my updated plan. Cut out Shelf plus pieces on wheel wells then weld together pieces if you have any suggestions/feedback it would be appreciated.
Luggage Shelf video
http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn11 ... erside.flv

Drivers side video

http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn11 ... elwell.flv

Drivers side wheel well from outside car showing where rust has went thru
http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn11 ... rsside.flv

Parts from a 68 beetle

http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn11 ... arpart.flv
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

Thank you
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EvilleT
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Post by EvilleT »

MNAirHead wrote:Thank you
No problem I will continue to post video as I go along. This is my first time working on any car but I am having fun I just wish I had more time. Other filming I plan to do will probably a complete driver side pan replacement, shift rod replacement, perhaps put a narrowed beam and drop spindle kit on and a few other projects all done by a newbie with ZERO experience. I can't wait I just hope some will learn from what I am doing in case they want to tackle some of these same projects.
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

Eville

We all learn from the posts.

If you want to banter about how to's etc.. please post back.

Some of the guys can build a dub from a pile of clips and parts.

Thank you.
adrenalnjunky
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

Eville - I am needing to replace a rusted out bottom pass. side corner of the rear window frame. Looks like you have/had that area left over from your cutting - any chance you still have that and we could work something out?
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

Junky..

What year is your car.. I or someone else may have one.. the rear windows did change over the years..

I'm sure we can dig up a free (if you pay the shipping) clip for you.

Any pix of your car so we can determine how much you need?

Tim
adrenalnjunky
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

Thanks MN - it's a 69 Body - I'm planning on converting it to look more like an early car. At least the front Apron and hood, early fenders/headlights and weld up the dash to lose the pad etc...

I just went out and took a better assessment - it needs the whole bottom frame of the front and rear replaced. Weird that the car has little more than surface rust anywhere else, heater channels and rockers seem fine, But complete rust through at the bottom of the front and rear glass.

It's got a lot of work ahead of me, but the pans are relatively good, I've had the body off for about 5 years, but haven't touched it in that long either. It was pretty rough when it got left in my care. I'll post pics tomorrow of what I've got.
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MNAirHead
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Post by MNAirHead »

Chances are this car has been repainted.

Any chance you can post up your windshield frames.. it's possible there's an other option... cutting this entire piece out would be a bunch of geometry.
adrenalnjunky
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Post by adrenalnjunky »

I'm pretty sure it's factory paint - could be wrong tho.

When I can get out there to take pics, I will.

Another member is chopping up a 69 body and is going to get me most of the metal, then I have to figure out how to splice it into my car the best.
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