Hi Marvel,
If you have a link-pin front end, shim for as much negative camber as you can. Some vendors offer special negative camber adjustment link pin kits. Try for a half to a full degree negative.
If you're a ball joint front end, just get camber adjusters that allow more range of adjustment than stock.
You have a light car (about 1200lbs, I'd say), but stock torsion bars, which makes for too much front stiffness.
On either type front end, you have to soften one of the sets of torsion bar leafs. Top or bottom, it doesn't matter. The easy way to do this is to slip out the leafs, and cut half of them away.
Stack and weld the end pieces together to allow for a normal fit into the trailing arms. You can do the same thing in the centre to accomodate the setscrew.
FJC
Making an RSK front end stick
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FJCamper
- Moderator
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- Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:19 pm
Coilovers
Hi DORIGTT,
Yes, coil-overs would be much better. I was offering Marvel a suggestion within what equipment he already has.
On the front end of a light car, both top and bottom torsion leaf stacks could be disabled and replaced by good coilovers.
We have an adjustable front axle on our Ghia 53, and discovered (as others have) that some brands adjust downward only, and have a starting point one to two inches lower than stock, and returning to stock height isn't possible.
As an experiment we havn't track tested yet, I've disconnected the bottom torsion leaf stack adjuster plate so the leafs can rotate freely (providing no springing at all), and installed a set of cheapie coilovers just to test changes in ride height.
We want one inch of forward weight "jacking," no more, and the least we can currently get on the axle adjustment is two inches.
FJC
Yes, coil-overs would be much better. I was offering Marvel a suggestion within what equipment he already has.
On the front end of a light car, both top and bottom torsion leaf stacks could be disabled and replaced by good coilovers.
We have an adjustable front axle on our Ghia 53, and discovered (as others have) that some brands adjust downward only, and have a starting point one to two inches lower than stock, and returning to stock height isn't possible.
As an experiment we havn't track tested yet, I've disconnected the bottom torsion leaf stack adjuster plate so the leafs can rotate freely (providing no springing at all), and installed a set of cheapie coilovers just to test changes in ride height.
We want one inch of forward weight "jacking," no more, and the least we can currently get on the axle adjustment is two inches.
FJC
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Marvel
- Posts: 127
- Joined: Tue Jun 10, 2003 1:54 pm
Hi FJC, I only just noticed this was here. That's good service I haven't even asked the question yet and I get the answer!
The front end of the Spyder is link pin . It's got sway aways fitted and no steering damper or anti-roll bar.
I've got the camber set by the book so should be 0.5deg positive. I'm not sure if the link pin bushes are worn enough to allow much negative camber but this is something to check over the winter.
I was told by someone in the South African Spyder Club that I could leave out the centre grub screw from the bottom torsion bar and is it as an anti roll bar. Have you heard of this being done. I did try it but there was no sideways location of the bottom trailing arm. I gues the same would apply with coilover shocks.
Any thoughts on changing the brake balance to to add more bias to the rear and stop the fronts locking up early?
Cheers, Marvel
The front end of the Spyder is link pin . It's got sway aways fitted and no steering damper or anti-roll bar.
I've got the camber set by the book so should be 0.5deg positive. I'm not sure if the link pin bushes are worn enough to allow much negative camber but this is something to check over the winter.
I was told by someone in the South African Spyder Club that I could leave out the centre grub screw from the bottom torsion bar and is it as an anti roll bar. Have you heard of this being done. I did try it but there was no sideways location of the bottom trailing arm. I gues the same would apply with coilover shocks.
Any thoughts on changing the brake balance to to add more bias to the rear and stop the fronts locking up early?
Cheers, Marvel
Last edited by Marvel on Thu Nov 27, 2008 11:14 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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FJCamper
- Moderator
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- Joined: Wed Nov 14, 2007 2:19 pm
Chassis tuning
Hi Marvel,
Do try an antiroll bar, beginning with a lightweight stock one. The idea that the original torsion beam suspension in itself provides antiroll is true, and you may know that Porsche didn't originally believe it needed a front antiroll bar -- until about 1954 or '55.
You have brake bias problems because your brake proportioning, as it is, is intended for a much heavier car. You can use common racing proportioning valves for this.
Move your battery up front if it isn't already.
Finally, on the negative camber, ask around any FV people you might know or search out on the web for these (actually cheap) negative camber top link pins.
Negative front camber transforms a VW. VW intended for the positive setting to induce understeer, but you're well past factory intentions for a street car.
FJC
Do try an antiroll bar, beginning with a lightweight stock one. The idea that the original torsion beam suspension in itself provides antiroll is true, and you may know that Porsche didn't originally believe it needed a front antiroll bar -- until about 1954 or '55.
You have brake bias problems because your brake proportioning, as it is, is intended for a much heavier car. You can use common racing proportioning valves for this.
Move your battery up front if it isn't already.
Finally, on the negative camber, ask around any FV people you might know or search out on the web for these (actually cheap) negative camber top link pins.
Negative front camber transforms a VW. VW intended for the positive setting to induce understeer, but you're well past factory intentions for a street car.
FJC
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snott
- Posts: 15
- Joined: Wed May 03, 2006 8:26 am