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Hey Guys,

Looks like the rotors on my `70 Ghia need to be replaced. The original calipers & bearings probably ought to be replaced at the same time. Never done this. Other than following the Bently manual is there anything to look out for or be aware of?

gerico wrote:. The original calipers & bearings probably ought to be replaced at the same time.

If they are in good shape, don't fix what's not broken.
Calipers and bearings don't "wear" out. They fail. There's a big difference. The best example is your car's front window. You don't just replace it because it is old, you wait until it breaks. A new window isn't more reliable than an old one that has no cracks. Same applies to ball bearings and calipers.
Take your bearings apart and clean them up. If they look good, and they are a quality name brand, repack them and put them back. Old used German ones are far superior to brand new China bearings.

Or ... one of your friends could help (psst ... tools, garage, and previous experience).

Hi Gerico,

I'm supposing you want to replace your calipers because you know they're old and the seals in them are heat-aged.

The current Varga calipers (two bleeders per caliper so they can be used on either side) are good replacements for the original ATE (or later Girlings) you probably have if you have originals. If you have a two-pin pad, it's ATE. These are the best in my opinion, and can use high-performace pads originally made for the rear brakes on some Alfa Romeos.

When you put in the new rotors, get original FAG or TRW bearings. Your local parts supply store likely has these. Have them look up the part number for your year.

We routinely replace our rotors, bearings, and calipers on our race Ghias, and this is how we do it.

Get the best grade of wheel bearing grease you can find and pack the bearings well, and be very careful in setting the spindle nut (6mm hex clamp screw) bearing adjuster tightness. If you've never done it before, have someone who has check your work.

If you're alone, adjust the tightness with the wheel and tire on the rotor.

You screw down the spindle nut finger tight until all the slack is out of it, and spin the wheel. With the nut fully finger tight, the rotor should not rock on the axle spindle, but the wheel should spin freely.

Back off the nut just a fraction of a turn so you feel a very, very, slight amount of play when you rock the wheel, then tighten it down.

"Very, very, slight" is defined here as the outer edge of the tire not moving more than an eight of an inch when you check for freeplay.

FJC

Is it worth rebuilding calipers? Or would it be better to just drop for new ones?

Hi Oz,

A good rebuild, if you can get the kit, is very satisfying. Make sure there is no corrosion or pitting on the piston or cup.

I keep a couple of kits for field repairs at the track, but brand new calipers are so cheap now the last time I just installed new calipers.

FJC