steering wheel shake when turn...???

[zzz]

1302...
4 balanced wheel,4 new tire
steering shock old but ok...

new bearing both front side
but it shake very strong when run more than 70kph with turn just alittle steering wheel, if hard turn, it smooth???

it shake until bearing adjuster loose and this synthom go wores, so i tight it back to position, just 2-300 km it loose again..........

all standard parts, only 2" cut spring at front and down1" torsion adjusted at rear

tire 195/60/15 front 205/65/15 rear.

before this it always shake but i balanced front wheel on car it better,
i found that front brake disc have small excentric so i change all front disc, seem better, but i still don't balances on car, cuz i thing that all problems shoude be gone with that disc... but it not, it be only 2-300 km as i said....

so any point that i neglet...
please advices.

another point is my bug run smooth onlw lower than 90kph, at the same road, if faster it will bug impact by the road, i just change new rear shockup to sach standard shock cuz alot cheeper, seem alot better, can drive to 110, i can feel that front wheel still be problem, but i'm not so sure that spring or shock is the root,

i check new rear shock it look like only one action for rebound, not have action for bump, but old shoch have 2 action both bump and rebound.
I check with my spare front shock it have 2 action too, so should i change to new that have only one rebound action as my new rear shock.


I use this bug for 5 years, before this suspension and wheel shake is OK for me, but my daugther just born, so i need very smooth bug for her and my wife. that why it go so big now

please, thanks in advances.

[Brent Bousman]

Did you check the play in all 4 tie rod ends? Some old tie rod ends can get a lot of play in them.

[Buzzbug72]

Check the ball joints and the idler arm bushing as well as all the tie-rod ends. A new steering damper (shock) would be a good idea too.

[zzz]

thanks,
all had been check both by shop and myself...all is still very good condition,
wheel roundness has been check too....less than 1 mm unround I check by lift it up and turn....

so that 's why i out of idea now...
please.....

[turbobaja]

Have you checked the alignment lately? How are the tires wearing? More importantly, how did the old tires look before they were replaced?

The front bearing adjusters working loose sounds like a serious problem. Are they new as well? Are the bearing races seated correctly in the drums?

[Buzzbug72]

Are you using a disk brake kit or have you replaced the drums lately? I have heard that some people have been having problems with seating the bearings on some of the newer kits. It takes quite a while for the races and bearings to become seated due to lesser quality metal these days. I would make sure your races are properly seated and bearings tightened and keep an eye on them. From there, my best advise would be to keep adjusting them when you notice them coming loose.

[Marc]

What front rims are you running? 1302 Supers are particularly sensitive to rims with too little backspace...they were barely acceptable using OEM tires/rims, anything that increases the scrub radius will exacerbate their inherent design weakness. Rim runout must be minimal (1mm max, both laterally and radially). Tires which check out fine externally can still cause problems if their belts are skewed. It's a flawed design, which is why VW couldn't postpone the cure and had to introduce the 1303 setup mid-year due too too many warrantee complaints about the 1302s).
In short, the rim/tire runout needs to be as close to perfect as possible...if they're OK, a bad idler arm bushing is frequently at fault, as Buzzbug72 indicated.

[FJCamper]

Hi ZZZ,

Be sure you don't have just plain old "Super Beetle Shimmy," which is worn bushings in the control arm.

When really bad, it causes shake and shimmy as soon as you hit a bump, but when it starts, you can get some steering wheel vibration after a tight turn.

FJC

[zzz]

Thanks,
This bug have front disc brake from factory.
I change front disc from old mexico to gremann made very old on self but new part.
Wheel i change from centerline style 15*5.5 4*130mm to enki+adaptor 15*6 4*100mm weightof all reduces from old set 0.5 kg/wheel.

because at first, tire shop said center of middle hub and center of 4 nut is excentric, they cant balances the wheel, need to dynamic balance on car only since i got this bug.
it seem better when i change new wheels and switch new tires(2500km ran) on it and check roundness of them. better than old wheel with new tire, but still have shake.

now i use shot cut, by put balances wight on wheel, i put 35 grams on one side and it respones very well. now shake reduce significantly, it seem if i dynamic balance on car again problem shoulb be gone...I hope.

but bump and un comfort driving still haunting me...

I have type2 bus too. he ran veryyyy smoothhhhh, can't compare with bug...

so how can i got that feeling on my bug...???

[Buzzbug72]

I would stay away from adapters. They can be very dangerous and I would think they would easily add to your shimmy problem as it's just one more piece that can be out of balance.

[raygreenwood]

If this is a super beetle....the control arm bushings are only a small portion of the "shimmies". The idler arm bushing is theost suspect, along with control arm bushings and strut bearings. Especially if you have teh early bonded rubber style strut bushings...if they are over 5 years old..they are shot and you cannot see this with the car on te hground and theheel on. Ray

[jcruzanski]

Ok, I'm fairly new here, so take my comments for their 2 cents only. Before recently purchasing my '71 Super, I had a '72 super beetle that shimmied ALOT.

Not thinking about it I kept inflating the front tires to the tire spec of 32lbs, not realizing that VW factory standards state 17-19 lbs of pressure in the front tire. I'm guessing because of the lack of weight on the fron end.

Once I started doing this, my shimmies stopped.

Just a thought.

[Piledriver]

Jer---IIRC we also replaced one or more steering links//bushings, and I think the idler arm bushing.

The tire pressure was still the huge issue, and must have made for ...interesting handling...

Nice avatar!

[jcruzanski]

Greggie, thought you'd enjoy that. After we replaced all the bushings in the front, it still had recurring shimmy issues. Learned to kind of live with it, revolving wheels, but if I'm remembering correctly, the tire pressure really shored up alot of it.

[zzz]

Ok, thanks alot for all recommend.

at first I plan to change all rubber bushing of it, but when i go to VW garage, they comfirm to me that original 1302 parts even they old is better than new china or mexico bush that avalible, ,maybe i need to import to here......

tried presser I test from 18-32 psi, now i ran at 24 psi at front 28 at rear,
steering wheel will too heavy if front pressure lower than 20,
and bump will increase significantly at 28 psi front 32 psi rear

about shaking seem alot better after i put some weight and balance on car.

but bump and comfort, is my issue now,
type 2 feeling still stick in my mind,
how to get that feeling in bug... pleasesss....