The best way to find imperfections in bodywork is...

[dstar5000]

to PAINT IT!

Pics at 11!


Don

[helowrench]

it is past 11



Rob

[dstar5000]

BUWAHAHAHAHAHHAHA! And I still left the camera in the workshop!

I now have 300 EURO worth of paint on the workshop floor.....


Before.....

Picture 146sm.JPG

Picture 143sm.JPG

Picture 055sm.JPG

Don

[doc]

Parts look nice in pics, Don.

You're right, each step in the painting process just shows off the imperfections. I've just come to accept that my paint work will never be perfect. Then you scratch everything up trying to assemble it. No rest for the wicked.....

doc

[dstar5000]

Actually, I call them a 10 footer, looks great from 10 ft away!


IF you zoom in, you can see a wave in the paint, in the valley on the 40 Ford hood
and there is a very small run on the left fender and you can still see primer through
2 coats of paint on the door.

I shouldn't have tried to paint this VERY translucent paint over gray primer(@ 60F too!),
so I sanded everything back down and will re-prime with ruddy red....

I think this is not going to give me the end-color I want, but I am SO ready to
see this car on the road to Bitburg this September!

I'll post more pics later, Ol Lady gots the camera now.....


Had to build this bubble to clear the Porsche fan:

2010 007sm.JPG

2010 003.jpg

Picture 049sm.JPG

Don

[dstar5000]

MO pics:

Bubble

updates 208sm.jpg

Hood

updates 209sm.jpg

Front Fenders

2010 006sm.jpg

Next post(only 3 per post allowed....)

Don

[dstar5000]

amsterdam nights!

IM000660sm.JPG

Rear before

Picture 061sm.JPG

After

updates 211sm.jpg

I use a wet sponge block with P240 to take the most off, then use
P400, then P600.

I have a question for the Pros:

In the beginning, I used 3 coats epoxy primer after grinding off all the old
paint and rust.

After all welding, grinding panel replacement and bodywork was finished,
I used Sikkens HighBuild primer, 3 coats, then blocked everything.

I then repainted any parts that broke through the HB with HB again and blocked
until flat(on a BUG, NOTHING is FLAT!)


Then I used SIKKENS 2K sealer for the whole car.

After a 3 day wait, I sprayed all the parts with the 2006 Ford, Laser Red Metallic Pearl.
I didn't get through with the body because my gun started shooting water drops out,
even though I have a trap on the compressor AND a trap right at the connection to my gun.

Probably due to a too small compressor and the fact that I could only get it up to 60 degrees
in the shop...and my impatience!


Anywho, on to the question:
SIkkens is very high priced here, actually ALL paint is VERY high priced here, so I am thinking
about switching and shooting the color with Lesonal. Do the Pros here think that I should
re-seal after sanding, to keep the two different products away from each other to prevent
possible *lifting*?

Any comments are welcome, HELPFUL comments are GREATLY APPRECIATED!


Don

[doc]

You're local paint pro or a call to tech service at either paint company may yield the actual, scientific answer.

If I had sealer left over, I would definitely reseal. Why not, just too easy. If i had to pay for more sealer, I'd hunt a while for the answer.

Paint is stupid expensive here in the States. Getting worse every quarter. Plus, it won't be long here before the water based product is the majority of sales, which will drive cost and availabliity of solvent based paints ever higher. I'm thinkin' not good.

And, somewhat uniquely, our cars have not a straight line on the body!!

doc

[dstar5000]

No sealer left over as I only used 2 liters to paint! VERY THIN layers!

It called for a P400 cut before the sealer, but I went on to P600 and
layed it in thin, 3 coats so I wouldn't have to buy another liter...

At 100EUR a liter for primer/sealer, and 200 per liter for lack, I already
have over 1000EUR in this paint job....

I should have just gave the local paint pro the 2000EUR($3000) he was asking
to do the job!


And I won't say anything about spraying solvent based paints in a booth that doesn't
collect the fumes.....midnight paint jobs!


Don

[dstar5000]

More random pics:

Before the sealer coat

Phatasssm.JPG

Blockedsm.JPG

Sanding back down

IM000650sm.JPG

[dstar5000]

HAHAHAHA, tried my hand at the Photoshop thingy:

GTbug2.JPG

I started to weld in a new apron and spare tire well, only to find that the front
has been *tweaked* at least twice! I had to cut half the damn front end off to
get everything to line up and fit the hood correctly.

IM000663sm.JPG

Yea, Yea, if you look closely you can see the welds, I ran out of gas again when I welded
in the spare tire well, so I used the stick. Man, I HATE going back to stick welding on panels!

You can see where I welded in the *new* firewall...don't worry, the welds will be under the
carpet!

IM000664sm.JPG

Don

[doc]

Nice, Don. It's coming right along. I'm not much of a kit car guy, but have always liked the '40 Ford/'41 Willys look alikes.

What drive train in this car?

doc

[fortyeye]

Looks great Don. The Willys profile is a classic. BTW ... thought you were taller ... Bwaaaaahhhahaha

[dstar5000]

Car($500)came with Rancho SA Freeway flyer and I built the 2.3L with 80X96s, 914 Annihilator
cam from Jake(9560+5/-5?), massaged Q heads, IDF 40s(36mm vents), 10.3:1, EMW 1 5/8"
stubs, T1 1 3/4" header, stinger or 2 Suzuki GSX-R muffs, Porsche cooling(NEVER do THAT
again!) recurved 009 w/Pertronix and billet cover.....what have I forgotten?

OH! Prolly around 150hp w the 40s and 170hp w the 45 Dells I have. Just a guess!


Detailed frame/tranny:

Frame2sm.JPG

Me cutting/welding up the T1 header:

IM000666sm.JPG

Muffs:

update 004sm.JPG

Looks great Don. The Willys profile is a classic. BTW ... thought you were taller ... Bwaaaaahhhahaha

BUWAHAHAHAHAHHAHA!! The guy taking the pic is quite a bit taller than me, as I am only 5'8",
so I jusst *LOOK* short in the pic!


Don

[harryset]

Don, that is one sweet ride you've got going there. Please keep up with the update pictures.