Shoptalkforums.com

If you ever have occasion to remove your front hinges, I'd recommend you invest in new hinge clips ("washers"), instead of reusing those tired and tweaked old ones. The good news is they are cheap and available at your VW dealer parts counter (as they were used in several vehicles well after the demise of the Super Beetle). These new style clips are a bit better than orig too (extra little tab that locks into the slots better). Anyway, here they are in case you ever need them (the top number, "N-900-470-01" is the part number).



The bad news is they are a bit harder to get on. Here's my trick. I take a big cotter pin (we'll only using one half (tthe longer half) of the cotter pin). I tie a zip tie through the loop on the cotter pin, creating a lanyard of sorts. I spread the cotter pin a bit and insert only half of the cotter pin into the fold of the clip (get a cotter pin that is large enough so that one side fits snugly into the clip's fold without opening up the clip). Then I twist the cotter pin 180 degrees (which causes the clip to open). Insert the clip ("washer") onto the hood mounting pin and either twist the cotter pin, allowing the clip to close, or just give it a serious yank on the zip tie to extricate the cotter pin from the clip. Since I don't have a pic, think of it this way: the half round shape of one half of a cotter pin makes a great cam to spread (open) the hood clip and that's how its used.

Anyway, Super Beetle hood pins can be a serious pain to deal with, so thought I'd share this little technique as it works well in those tight quarters.

Now, I am cursed to always bend the spring rod on Super Beetle hinges (late, not '71-'72 SBs). Keeping my bug resto stock has been my goal, but to hell with it. So, want to switch out those springs for gas struts? Here's how I did it:

Monroe part number 901339 / Stabilus SG402001 (early 90's BMW 318 hood lift supports). Problem with the BMW one is the extended length is 10" (compressed is 6.3" so okay there). The Monroe struts were approx $10 ea (Rock Auto, if I recall). You have to shorten the extended length from 10" to 8.5" (roughly the extended length of the stock spring configuration). Weld the rod ends (blade) back on after shortening.


Probably best to install cartridge end down as the mounts on that end are a bit thicker as you have to open up those holes just a smidge to fit on the factory posts (lower mounts). I forgot this when I did mine and there's enough metal left over after opening up the holes, but not much. Anyway, either way works. Some Specs: 911 front hood struts' expanding force is approx 120 pounds. The BMW hood struts are 94 pounds. I only did my pass side as that's the one causing me troubles with the orig spring set up. With that one side on (and the driver's side still using a perfect factory spring, I can not tell any difference between the resistance b/t the sides. The hood opens nicely, smoothly and quietly. The hood remains open and closes nicely (with a little less effort than before as don't have to overcome the starting resistance of the factory spring setup when closing). Again, I only did one side and the hood works better than it ever did. Since this if far from scientific, it is possible that if using these struts on both sides, it may be a little weak when it comes to keeping the hood up. I do not know and I don't think that will be an issue, but in the spirit of full disclosure, there you go. Its pretty unobtrusive and one could paint the cartridge to match the vehicle to make it even less obtrusive.

sweet, nice writeup.

Hi

I've seen photos of some horrible damage caused when these clips let go. I didn't want to leave anything to chance when I had my car repainted so I replaced the pin and clip with a nut and bolt.

This is fairly easy on passenger side, but on the drivers side I needed to cut a larger hole with a hole saw, my car is RHD.

Steve

Steve C wrote:Hi

I've seen photos of some horrible damage caused when these clips let go. I didn't want to leave anything to chance when I had my car repainted so I replaced the pin and clip with a nut and bolt.

This is fairly easy on passenger side, but on the drivers side I needed to cut a larger hole with a hole saw, my car is RHD.

Steve

Steve C, if you're still out there (some time has passed)... What does it take to get the pins out (did you use a drill? or maybe a grinder?) My old clip came off and now I have a dent in my cowl where the hinge went flying. It was a new paint job and the body man screwed up the hinge and spring. Thanks

Hi

They had token weld on them, came out easily both sides.

Steve