EJ20G into 67 Bug

[Buggin_74]

If you search around on AVD for Bajawes mazda V6 bug it's been running a rad mounted in the parcel tray since about 2003.

Although it is a lifted baja which probably helps

Getting the air to rad is one thing, but it also has to escape as well
You don't want the rad or even the engine recirculating hot air

[surfbeetle]

I think with what I have cut away around the rear of the engine, I will be okay with the hot air getting out. I also am looking for either a low priced '67 convertible rear decklid or a 68-71ish rear decklid so I can make a 67 convertible decklid. I have a total of three 1967 decklids in the garage so I figure I can sacrifice one for the cause.

[surfbeetle]

Nothing much to report on the car, I did do some shopping last weekend. Bought a tubing bender and a flare tool from Sears. About $100 for the two. I know you can get them cheaper elsewhere but went with Moosman's recommendation to get a quality tool for the job. Also picked up the fuel reservoir from Vee Parts. The last thing I did was go down to the local metal supply shop looking for 5/16 steel tubing. They wanted $58.00 for a 20 foot hard line.

I went to summit.com and looked up fuel pumps and fuel line. I have $20 off a 100 or more purchase so I am going to get the fuel pump (99.00) and a 25' roll of 5/16" fuel line (29.00) from them. Shipping is only about 11.00 so it'll be cheaper than what I was originally looking at. Maybe I'll get some time to work on it this afternoon.

[Mooosman]

When you get your roll of steel tubing, take it onto your front yard (or other large area), and you can SLOWLY unwind it into one long, straight section. You can do it by hand, just slowly inching your way through the tubing and straightening it with your hands. When you get it relatively straight, take it to your driveway (or sidewalk) and try rolling it around. When you see a high spot, you can tap it down with a rubber mallet. It takes some time, but you can get the line pretty much straight with just your bare hands and a mallet.

I'll have to take a couple pics, but there is also a trick you can do with the double flare tool to make a 'bulb' on the end of the tube to put a hose over, just like a factory fuel line. It takes a little practice, but after a while you can make the bulb look factory.

Make sure you use real EFI hose clamps for your fuel system! Regular hose clamps will eat into the hose.


Did you get the aluminum tubing bender with the blue handles? That thing's sweet to use. Well worth the money...

Nick

[surfbeetle]

I will definitely take your advice on straightening out the roll. Yes, I bought the blue handled tube bender, glad to hear I made the right choice. I was hesitant cause it was not the cheapest one I had seen. Also bought the flaring tool at Sears as well.

I did get right rear side welded up the other night. Here's some shots although it needs more grinding in the corner. The corner is hard to get at, I need to find something that will reach it.

IMG_20110216_211258.jpg

IMG_20110216_211248.jpg

[surfbeetle]

Okay one question about the forum, what am I doing wrong that some of the photos display as attachments and others show up in the post itself?

[surfbeetle]

I don't really have anything new to post. I did finish the right side of the engine compartment. I have to get some new bumper brackets and figure how to mount the bumper. I think this week I may do some wiring on the ecu. I recently got the adapter cable to connect my stand alone Link ECU to the laptop and want to see if it works.

[WickedWagens]

Tubing is also easy to unroll if you unroll it against a flat surface. I usually start with the end flat on the ground and stand on it while I unroll the tubing pressing the roll against the flat surface as you unroll. It usually will give you a nice straight piece.

[surfbeetle]

Thanks for the tip Wicked. I will do that.

[surfbeetle]

Guys and Gals, I have a question, what is the item in the center of these photos? It's on one side of the intake manifold. It looks like it has coolant hoses going to it as well.
I'm doing some wiring and don't have anything in my Link ECU that will connect up to this. I got my Link ECU used from a sandrail and I think they probably didn't use this device.
Thanks

iac3.jpg

iac2.jpg

iac1.jpg

[Master slacker]

That's the IAC. By using a standalone system, you probably won't be needing it.

[surfbeetle]

Thanks Master Slacker. I'll let everyone know what I end up doing with this, I don't think my ECU has any other wires left to connect up. I had been under the impression that the black box on the side of the throttle body was the IAC, I guess I was wrong. I still have a lot to learn about the subaru motors.

[Mooosman]

Thanks Master Slacker. I'll let everyone know what I end up doing with this, I don't think my ECU has any other wires left to connect up. I had been under the impression that the black box on the side of the throttle body was the IAC, I guess I was wrong. I still have a lot to learn about the subaru motors.

The black box on the throttle body is the throttle position sensor. You'll definitely need to connect that up!


Nick

[surfbeetle]

Thanks Nick, I do have that one connected. The used Link ECU came with a harness that has plugged into everything except the IAC. I have to power it up to check the firmware version so that I can find out if I am able to use the IAC. I would like to use it if I can otherwise I'll have to remove it and fab up a block off plate for it.

I don't know if you guys on Shop talk have seen it but here is the link to the NASIOC support forum thread for the Link ECU.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthr ... ?t=1635183
Miles Hechtman at Fine Line Imports imports has started this thread and he is very helpful, great customer service. I purchased a serial connector from him so that I can connect the ecu to my laptop.

[turboedbug]

if you end up not using the iac and need a plate. outfront sell one for like 10 bucks and its made of aluminum and could polish up nice