Shoptalkforums.com

The engine was listed as coming from an '86. I expected an MV but it is a DJ. At least this is what is stamped on the case. There is also an ID decal that is hard to read

http://s187.photobucket.com/user/regis1 ... feb%202013

I think that yellow sticker is a factory rebuild sticker? If so the pistons may be mv anyway. You have scored two amc heads though. I say rip a head off and post pics of the piston dish. I would happily reuse low to moderate mileage dj pistons.

The PO mentioned that the heads are ~3 yrs old. I don't know if the hardware is AMC or swapped out. I can ask him.
He swapped in a 2.3 and had this to offer. Mentioned this engine had low oil pressure.

I just finished putting the head back onto the case. Added some piston pic's to the link.
My guess is that it is a rebuild. I verified 76 x 94

There is a 1.9 in our '85. I can use this as a core if I go Vanistan or RJE, or me.

It's common for a low oil pressure diagnosis to be based on no more than the buzzer sounding off, it's just the senders in most cases, so no doubt you have a good core. Regards BBB.

Those are MV pistons.

Cool. Thanks. I was hoping someone would know by looks. Kinda glad they are. It seems easier to bump compression rather than decrease. There does seem to be a love for the DJ stuff though.

I might pick up a cc kit or at least a burette. Wine making supply shops used to carry them for a reasonable price.

This should be a good candidate for a builder. Three yr old heads, hasn't thrown a rod and turns over almost too easily.
Deck height was almost nil. I didn't notice any head gasket or shim between the barrel and the head. I suppose those are lapped in when rebuilding.

When I removed the head for a look, the residual coolant was dark green. I only know of the Orange stuff thru MB and another blueish colored coolant that some shops use. Kinda shows how long I've been out of the , proper coolant, loop.

I sent off for a flywheel and 2.1 intake plenum/runners.

I'm getting mixed reactions and info as to whether or not the 1.9 intake tract does indeed fit onto the 2.1 case. I'll have both on hand

This question belongs somewhere else other than here, but, why does it seem most if not all VW AC and Wasser cams are larger on the intake than exhaust? I'm all hep to the, well the intake charge coming in will expand after it fires thus helping to push its way out the exhaust tract. blah blah. But having an efficient scavenging exhaust system should equate this, no? That magical 85% intake to exhaust flow rate considered.
I would at least hope for a symmetrical cam. It can be advanced or retarded for need.
If an asymmetrical is used, it would seem that the exhaust side would be larger in lift and duration.
I've run across Crower and maybe Schneider, iirc, that have larger exhaust. Coming from the US iron big three gas guzzler V8 world, this is where my brain is at. Isky has been my go-to for many years. Yeah, I said it.
I can't seem to find specs from the GoWesty (Elgin), RJE or Vanistan builder/vendor.
Help a brother out? Here's three that I like for a 2.1 on Digijet, good exhaust
Crower 61002
Isky 480128
Crower 6100
Also have to realize that the cams I look at are, be they solids or hydraulic, for the 1600. Add some cc and it can take more cam. Add in the Digijet FI and I have to be careful about over camming a 2.2 even with 1600 specs/definitions.

IMHO T1 exhaust ports layout work ~unbelievably well compared to almost anything else.

On an aircooled they compromise cooling quite a bit, on WBX ~not at all.

Len Hoffman has noted on TOS that the poor quality hardware in the T4 AMC heads was resolved ~2011ish.
I assume that also applies to the WBX heads, or are the valves and seats still made from bean cans?

double

Piledriver wrote:
I assume that also applies to the WBX heads, or are the valves and seats still made from bean cans?

They are good quality. Our shop has installed hundreds of them without problems.

Is there any way to find out where the better parts are from? Would a Rockwell test help?
Sorry. I really gotta take off the beer goggles

jackstraw wrote:Is there any way to find out where the better parts are from? Would a Rockwell test help?
Sorry. I really gotta take off the beer goggles

You will know when you take them apart.

After 60K, all my valves and seats had beaten each other into compatible, interesting shapes.
Amazingly they DID ~seal, and the hydro lifters kept it all quiet.
(Heads were AMC ~2003 vintage)

Hey--- I picked up some good freshly touched up 1.9 heads awhile back due to my AMC heads being garbage.

I have 2 MV intake manifold runner sets, does anyone 2.1 heads and 1.9 runners and need to swap?

A good machine shop can remove the exhaust seats without damaging the seat bore and replace them without machining as long as there are no cracks. I was quoted $25 per seat locally.
The AMC castings really are better than the VW ones.

jackstraw wrote:Is there any way to find out where the better parts are from? Would a Rockwell test help?
Sorry. I really gotta take off the beer goggles

The genuine VW valves have a VW part number stamped near the keeper grooves. The genuine VW intake valves have VW forged right on the head of the valve. I usually regrind the stock intakes depending on stem wear and runout.
Replacement ATE or TRW are good valves too. I have used oversized SI industries valves but don't have any long term report yet. They do make replacement valves and also in stainless.
Stock valve springs are fairly weak duals and the retainers are stupidly heavy. Type1 duals will work with some minor mods 1.5" T1 installed vs 1.4" WBX.
Some flow tests : http://web.archive.org/web/200802092058 ... -bench.htm