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Hi, we have a 2.0ltr type 2 come in our shop last week, that van drove too us, although it was running very badly, would not tickover and was very flat.
I removed plugs, carried out compression check, renewed plugs, points and condenser, since this the van will not start, it runs on the cold start valve then immediately shuts off, we have good fuel pressure and inanities, but no switched neg to injectors, we have checked loom, Al, is good, my only remaining thoughts are
1 ECU. The unit is getting a switched neg from the points but it is not converting this into a signal from the injectors.
2. Duration gap for closure of points is incorrect to a degree that the ECU will not recognise signal.
Your thoughts please

Disconnect ALL the white ground wires at the case split several times each to renew their contact. Double check the pulse wire from the negative side of the coil to the connector that the ECU plugs into. Bad (cracked) wiring harnesses cause all sorts of phantom issues.

Thanks Nate, my next try was to renew all earth points and maybe share earth direct to ECU, this van has had ongoing running problems for over a year, but every time it came to my shop it would run fine.
Normally after his 80 mile drive home it would start to run poor again, it came to my shop so I could replace AFM as the track was worn out, while I waited for FedEx guy to bring in AFM I did points, condenser and plugs, that was when the this bus decided to give me the silent treatment

The bad afm alone could cause this, no fuel unless it moves/connects.
Any disconnected plumbing will do same, airflow is required.

Second the ground fix, suggest replacing all the ends with 8mm id loops lugs in hot melt glue/heat shrink sealed crimps (most auto parts places carry them)
attach to a bolt under a washer, the push-ons are convenient, but are also a perpetual failure waiting to happen.

The heat shrink crimps make them waterproof and provide good strain relief.

ECUs either work or they don't, but I doubt the van would drive in on its own while the ECU is about to give out. There rarely go bad unless they get wet or something.

Pull one of the regular injectors and insert a noid, then crank it and watch if the light pulses. If so then the ECU is sending a signal. Check the voltage at the ignition coil when it cranks where the power wire to the ECU plugs in. Coils rarely go bad on these cars, but it is a possibility.

The other thing to check is the contact at the air flap switch inside the air flow meter. You can pull the intake pipe off, turn the key to the first position and work the flap a little with a wooden chopstick or something similar to hear if the fuel pump comes on.

L-jet manual:

https://manuals.type4.org/ljet/