Looking for dry sump tank info

[woodsbuggy1]

I will be building a dry sump tank for my offroad buggy this winter and am looking for info on proper venting, the correct way to separate oil and air etc. This tank will be built from aluminum and will need to be a custom tank to fit the area that I have available. I am planning on 6 quarts of oil so 8 quart capacity tank. I will be using the CB pump(unless someone talks me out of it). Looking for any real world info or links.
Thanks
Kenric

[Fiatdude]

Get the road racer guys involved with this they have a lot of experience with these ----

Start looking at existing tanks out there -- It is not so much that they need venting as they need 'time' for the oil to get all the air bubbles out of it (multiple levels) -- I've got a tank out in the garage and I'll post some pics of it tomorrow

[woodsbuggy1]

Thanks that would be great, I have been unable to find any good cutaway views of tank, the best pic I have found was from a Peterson 2 piece tank. You are correct the baffling is what concerns me the most.
Kenric

[ONEBADBUG]

Mine was just a section of aluminum pipe, about 5" in diameter, 2 ft high, oil came in at a tangent at the top, swirled around and bubbles were all gone at the bottom.

[turbobaja]

I like BadBug's tank design. Tall and rather slender, simple and effective.

I run a CB tank and it's very simple inside. The CB pump isn't pushing near the volume of airiated oil back to the tank that most drysump pumps deliver. The single baffle is plenty to do the job in my case. I run a single -8 vent line to my Alt. stand base.

I run 8-9qts in mine. CB pump does a great job of keeping crankcase oil level very low and provides plenty of volume to the oil circuits.

I'd recommend doing all the common "blueprinting" that every oil pump needs. Deck all the mating surfaces on glass w/gears installed. Open the pressure pump inlet to -10. And either use a FF cover or tap the housing for true full-flow filtering AFTER the pump.

If you mount your tank "level" with your sump, drainback won't be an issue, otherwise consider a 5/8" ball valve in the tank-to-pump inlet circuit.

[Marc]

Hopefully you'll be able to fit a cylindrical tank - even without baffles, if the incoming oil is comes in at a tangent just the swirling action around the inside wall does most of the de-aerating. With a rectangular tank you get turbulence at the first corner which can even aerate the oil worse. Not sayin' a rectangular tank can't be made to work, but cylindrical's better. Either way, taller is always better (it'll weigh a little more than a same-capacity "squatty" tank but de-aerate better and slosh less).

https://sdparts.com/sites/default/files ... R22663.jpg

...If you mount your tank "level" with your sump, drainback won't be an issue, otherwise consider a 5/8" ball valve in the tank-to-pump inlet circuit.

I'd include the ball valve regardless, some drainback's going to occur when you're parked for a few days...and it makes things less messy when the engine needs to come out. A sightglass can be nice, too.

[Fiatdude]

This is 12w x 12d the box is 8t but 12 overall -- it is designed to set behind the passengers seat on the floor

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss30 ... fvogjr.jpg

http://i586.photobucket.com/albums/ss30 ... 4otmtg.jpg

I have a complete CB kit including pulley on the shelf that I've never used -- I run crank trigger and haven't found a trigger wheel that will fit inside the smaller pulley to make this kit work -- open to offers

[4agedub]

I like BadBug's tank design. Tall and rather slender, simple and effective.

I run a CB tank and it's very simple inside. The CB pump isn't pushing near the volume of airiated oil back to the tank that most drysump pumps deliver. The single baffle is plenty to do the job in my case. I run a single -8 vent line to my Alt. stand base.

I run 8-9qts in mine. CB pump does a great job of keeping crankcase oil level very low and provides plenty of volume to the oil circuits.

I'd recommend doing all the common "blueprinting" that every oil pump needs. Deck all the mating surfaces on glass w/gears installed. Open the pressure pump inlet to -10. And either use a FF cover or tap the housing for true full-flow filtering AFTER the pump.

If you mount your tank "level" with your sump, drainback won't be an issue, otherwise consider a 5/8" ball valve in the tank-to-pump inlet circuit.

I've been running the CB pumps on a couple of race engines without any issues. The oil scavenge side is a little small and does battle to keep up especially if you add an restrictive oil cooler on the return line.

The ball valve idea on the feed line works well... if the guys remember to open it. I had a customer damage a brand new engine due to this. The solution was to add a micro switch on the ball valve arm that is linked to the starter. When the valve is closed the starter circuit will simply not work.

[JWP]

For dry sump tanks, I've found a few I have my eye one. The cost of the tank has been my decision against doing dry sump thus far but they are coming down, or my budget is going up, not sure which.

Anyhow here are a few I've found. I can't make them this cheap when i count my labor, which my wife counts it so i kinda have to.
http://www.allstarperformance.com/specSheets/pdf/23.pdf
http://www.allstarperformance.com/specSheets/pdf/24.pdf
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway- ... oClvjw_wcB This one appears to be a copy of those in the first link, if not the same thing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/OBX-Aluminum-Oi ... 1118809503 This little guy looks interesting however the qty is a tad small for my liking. There is a thread on "the other forum" that shows the internals, but still i'm not crazy about the small volume, however at 80 per you could run 2 to get up to 5 qts but the cost savings would be ate up in extra hose and fittings.
The small one from Allstar is probably what I would choose for the money.

[woodsbuggy1]

Fiat, I sent you a PM.
My tank will be rectangular in shape do to chassis constraints, but I really like the idea of sending the inlet oil through a baffled tube in the center and a pair of baffles inside the tank.
Thanks for all of the Great input .
Thanks
Kenric

[aircooledtechguy]

Here is the tank I plan to incorporate in my Squareback (under the rear seat). It's an old 3 gallon Richardson Racing unit with a built-in Oberg filter on the inlet. The interior baffeling is quite simple. It has 3 layers which are nothing more than a "Z" shaped piece of aluminum set on edge with a flat piece with holes punched in laying on top of the "Z". Here's what it looks like. Hope this helps. . .

[woodsbuggy1]

Fiat, please contact me about your CB pump.
Thank You everyone for all of the Great ideas and input. I think that I know have a game plan, it will be a few months till I can work on this but I will keep everyone updated.
Thanks Again
Kenric

[Stripped66]

I run a CB tank and it's very simple inside.
...

I run 8-9qts in mine.

You need to measure the physical dimensions of your dry-sump tank and calculate it's actual volume.

[turbobaja]

I run a CB tank and it's very simple inside.
...

I run 8-9qts in mine.

You need to measure the physical dimensions of your dry-sump tank and calculate it's actual volume.

I did not mean to suggest that the tank holds 8-9 qts all by itself, I should have been more clear. I run a total of 9qts in my drysump system, including the hoses, filter, cooler and probably over 1qt that stays in the sump. I made a dipstick to measure the depth of oil in the sump tank, and noted its depth after an oil change where I added a total of 9 qts to the system, ran it, shut it down and closed the ball valve from the tank to the pump inlet, and then checked the level in the tank after a cool down. It's not a huge tank by any means, I'd say 2 gallons would top it off. But it does a good job for me, and has a hole in the baffle to put a dipstick down and measure the oil level (no I can't add a sight tube to the side and actually see it).

[Stripped66]

I did not mean to suggest that the tank holds 8-9 qts all by itself ...

Gotchya, you're on top of it. My concern, in general, is that CB advertises this tank as having 12-quart capacity, which it does not by a large margin. Depending on your scavenge stage and the volume of your filter/cooler/lines, people may find the "2/3rds" tank capacity rule to not work out because the tank is smaller than advertised. Checking the oil level in the tank, like you've done, is important.