I'm about to crank up the CD Type 2 engine in my '69 Ghia and curious what oil some of you T4 folks use. The engine is a GEX rebuilt to 2.0 litre with a Rabi upright cooling system, external oil filter & cooler. I have used 10/30 oil with Zinc hy-per-lube additive in the other 1.6 engine that just came out. Zinc states the product is recommended for flat tappet cam engines. I was told my engine has hydraulic lifters but not sure how to verify this. Can you tell me how and would you recommend using an additive?
The cooler, mounted above the trans, has an electric fan. I'm not sure if the fan has to be operated all the time and wondering if a thermo switch can be installed some where or use a potentiometer to reduce fan speed and battery draw.
Thank you for any advice and information that you may offer.
OIl + additive & a few other questions
-
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2015 7:46 am
- Piledriver
- Moderator
- Posts: 22715
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:01 am
Re: OIl + additive & a few other questions
If you use a good break in oil you don't need additives, but what you bought will probably work.
I would use something like VR1 dino oil for the first 1000 miles.
Flat tappet lifters need more ZDDP as you know, there are commonly available, perfectly OK oils to use but you can't just grab a random oil off the shelf anymore.
I use Rotella T6 synthetic.
The hydraulic lifters still require periodic valve adjustment.
The adjuster screw tips are usually the wear point for valve adjustment changes
You should inspect the screw tips at every valve adjustment until you are sure they don't get flat spots.
Otherwise, any adjustment will end up on a knife edge and go away in a few miles.
Old German adjustment screws are usually better than new.
If slightly worn, you can re-radius them chucked up in a drill with some wet-or-dry in the palm of your hand, the actual radii isn't critical, it just must exist.
The spec changed on the lifter preload, old manuals show 2 turns
the correct preload spec is 1/4-3/4 turn, I prefer 1/4.
On a first start, adjust the valves like they are solids at .006"
This will help purge out any air.
Don't run them like that past cam breakin.(~20 minutes @2000 RPM)
I would use something like VR1 dino oil for the first 1000 miles.
Flat tappet lifters need more ZDDP as you know, there are commonly available, perfectly OK oils to use but you can't just grab a random oil off the shelf anymore.
I use Rotella T6 synthetic.
The hydraulic lifters still require periodic valve adjustment.
The adjuster screw tips are usually the wear point for valve adjustment changes
You should inspect the screw tips at every valve adjustment until you are sure they don't get flat spots.
Otherwise, any adjustment will end up on a knife edge and go away in a few miles.
Old German adjustment screws are usually better than new.
If slightly worn, you can re-radius them chucked up in a drill with some wet-or-dry in the palm of your hand, the actual radii isn't critical, it just must exist.
The spec changed on the lifter preload, old manuals show 2 turns
the correct preload spec is 1/4-3/4 turn, I prefer 1/4.
On a first start, adjust the valves like they are solids at .006"
This will help purge out any air.
Don't run them like that past cam breakin.(~20 minutes @2000 RPM)
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
-
- Posts: 39
- Joined: Sun Mar 22, 2015 7:46 am
Re: OIl + additive & a few other questions
Thanks for excellent advice and information. Still not sure if hydros were installed at the rebuild although PO said yes.
VWDAVE
- Piledriver
- Moderator
- Posts: 22715
- Joined: Sat Feb 16, 2002 12:01 am
Re: OIl + additive & a few other questions
You'll know when you adjust your valves, they are compressible about 4 turns of the adjustment screw.David Follett wrote:Thanks for excellent advice and information. Still not sure if hydros were installed at the rebuild although PO said yes.
You will also probably know on first startup as if they have any air in them it will sound like you have a 1/4" of valve lash.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.