Thanks Lee. Got the trunk lid sorted.
These doors were actually on the car when I bought it as can be seen on the very first post on this thread. I didn't have any earlies so I just went with them. A while back I obtained some very nice Z-style armrests and they will work with these doors. Still looking for rear armrests though.
Max
Going under the knife
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Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
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Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
I just noticed that the location of the part that the armrest hooks into is not in the same place. Note where the window crank would be?
Found this picture over on tos of an early door. The armrest needs to be much lower.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album ... id=1236151
Adjustments will be made.
Edit: After looking closer, it looks like I had the armrest on backwards. Crisis averted.
Max
Found this picture over on tos of an early door. The armrest needs to be much lower.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album ... id=1236151
Adjustments will be made.
Edit: After looking closer, it looks like I had the armrest on backwards. Crisis averted.
Max
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Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
Last few days have been engine days.
I rotated the oil filter to horizontal. I didn't like that the vertical mounting placed the filter right behind the rear tire. This is better. Back-filled the pump and then spun the engine for oil pressure. About 45 psi with the plugs out.
The VR needed to be realigned. Moved the sensor closer to the toothed wheel. I'll need to recheck my tooth angle.
Put the exhaust back together (minus the muffler) and used Ultra Copper on all the slip joints. There was evidence of leakage before.
And the engine is back in the car. The muffler is not in yet.
I am systematically testing each sensor as I hook things back up. The CLT and IAT both work. For some reason the TPS is not working. I'll start with that tomorrow.
Max
I rotated the oil filter to horizontal. I didn't like that the vertical mounting placed the filter right behind the rear tire. This is better. Back-filled the pump and then spun the engine for oil pressure. About 45 psi with the plugs out.
The VR needed to be realigned. Moved the sensor closer to the toothed wheel. I'll need to recheck my tooth angle.
Put the exhaust back together (minus the muffler) and used Ultra Copper on all the slip joints. There was evidence of leakage before.
And the engine is back in the car. The muffler is not in yet.
I am systematically testing each sensor as I hook things back up. The CLT and IAT both work. For some reason the TPS is not working. I'll start with that tomorrow.
Max
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GS guy
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Re: Going under the knife
Nice progress Max! That filter orientation looks to have cleaned up & simplified the hose/fitting routing.
Jeff
Jeff
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Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
Remember the issue of where the fuel tubes exiting the frame-head directly into the tie-rod space ?
I made those nifty bits to fit over the end of each tube. The idea was to "glue" them in place with seam-sealer. The supply side one had a nice fit and does not leak. The return side fit poorly and leaks where the seam sealer is. Now I have to figure a way to get that fitting off so I can try again.
Max
I made those nifty bits to fit over the end of each tube. The idea was to "glue" them in place with seam-sealer. The supply side one had a nice fit and does not leak. The return side fit poorly and leaks where the seam sealer is. Now I have to figure a way to get that fitting off so I can try again.
Max
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Piledriver
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Re: Going under the knife
I'll plead one more time to please have zero faith in seam sealer, and move the new lines to the removable access plate.
Not worth burning it all down/
Not worth burning it all down/
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
Stand down soldier. Not your car and there are some things you don't know in this case.
First, the sealer in question is the POR 15 product. I already used it on one of the earlier iterations of my in-tank pump idea. There were other problems but the sealer worked as advertised. Theirs is also the only product I found that "dries as hard as a rock, remains flexible, and once dry is totally impervious to fuels and solvents." Their lawyers let them say that.
https://por15.com/products/patch
Second, the fitting that leaked had other problems. I originally didn't like the fit to the tube. The other one was a nice press-fit. I unwisely drilled the second fitting one drill size bigger, making it loose. My mistake. I tried to compensate with some JB Weld. The JB Weld is what failed, possibly failing to bond with the sealer that was already there. Basically a mess of my own making.
Turns out the JB Weld was also the key to removing that fitting. As soon as I began grinding the epoxy softened and I could easily just twist it off. Now I can make a new fitting and throw this "prototype" were all prototypes belong.
Max
First, the sealer in question is the POR 15 product. I already used it on one of the earlier iterations of my in-tank pump idea. There were other problems but the sealer worked as advertised. Theirs is also the only product I found that "dries as hard as a rock, remains flexible, and once dry is totally impervious to fuels and solvents." Their lawyers let them say that.
https://por15.com/products/patch
Second, the fitting that leaked had other problems. I originally didn't like the fit to the tube. The other one was a nice press-fit. I unwisely drilled the second fitting one drill size bigger, making it loose. My mistake. I tried to compensate with some JB Weld. The JB Weld is what failed, possibly failing to bond with the sealer that was already there. Basically a mess of my own making.
Turns out the JB Weld was also the key to removing that fitting. As soon as I began grinding the epoxy softened and I could easily just twist it off. Now I can make a new fitting and throw this "prototype" were all prototypes belong.
Max
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Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
While I was under the rear purging that gas line, I noticed a dot of oil under the engine. It was coming from where the oil dipstick thing attached to the case. I gave of those nuts an extra pull. I'll take a look later and see if it's still leaking.
Made another fitting for the fuel line. Waiting to hear from my welder buddy.
My spacers came in from gaugestore. They are nice! They even clear those little bolts that hold the type-3 drum to the rotor.
Even though the car is not quite at full weight it does look like I'll need to fine-tune the rear ride height.
Max
Made another fitting for the fuel line. Waiting to hear from my welder buddy.
My spacers came in from gaugestore. They are nice! They even clear those little bolts that hold the type-3 drum to the rotor.
Even though the car is not quite at full weight it does look like I'll need to fine-tune the rear ride height.
Max
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Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
Max
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Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
My niece helped get the fenders out of the rafters today. Tomorrow I'll hang the muffler and hopefully make some noise.
Max
Max
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Max Welton
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Re: Going under the knife
The engine is running again. Seems to want a touch of throttle to fire when warmed up. And I don't have the mixture control quite settled at idle.
https://youtu.be/3lzoaXAf05E
Max
https://youtu.be/3lzoaXAf05E
Max
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Clatter
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Re: Going under the knife
Rocks are flexible?
I had the same problem myself,
Following what VW (foolishly) did in locating fuel line exit points from the tunnel.
Even worse, mine are AN males in SS welded to the tunnel itself.
Probably my biggest blunder in building my car...
I shortened the pitman arm and drag links equal amounts to make a bit of room for tie rods..
Once i go FI and need both fittings, It'll involve some rather serious surgery...
Not what you want to hear,
But using any kind of glue with modern fuels is a big no-no.
No matter what their advertising people might say.
Speedier than a Fasting Bullet!
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
Beginners' how-to Type 4 build thread ---> http://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=145853
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GS guy
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Re: Going under the knife
Haven't heard from Max in quite a while - hope all is well? Really enjoy following along with the build of the T3. Innovative ideas and experimentation. A few failures are par for the course!
Thinking about that fuel line again - maybe a little surgery in the tunnel, opening an access hole then cutting off the lines going forward. Fit Swagelock fittings to connect old lines to new, then re-route new sections forward to a more favorable outlet location? Pressure check then re-weld the hole back shut (or fit one of the Manx cover plates). Epoxy might work for a while, but the constant worrying about when (not if) it starts leaking not worth the aggravation - to me at least! YMMV!
All the best Max, Jeff
Thinking about that fuel line again - maybe a little surgery in the tunnel, opening an access hole then cutting off the lines going forward. Fit Swagelock fittings to connect old lines to new, then re-route new sections forward to a more favorable outlet location? Pressure check then re-weld the hole back shut (or fit one of the Manx cover plates). Epoxy might work for a while, but the constant worrying about when (not if) it starts leaking not worth the aggravation - to me at least! YMMV!
All the best Max, Jeff