Lug nut conversion

[nbuscemi]

Not sure this is in the right place. I figured since it was a "conversion", it made sense.

I know there are kits available to convert the stock wheel bolts to studs but I wanted to do it myself. How hard can it be...? I ordered a set of 14mm X 1.5 studs from Amazon with a set of matching nuts. Looked good, "seemed" to fit etc... until I go to remove a front wheel and noticed one of the nuts bottomed out on the stud shoulder. This is when I realized I was using the wrong nuts.


Here is the nuts I originally ordered. They are a 60* taper style.


Here are the nuts I replaced them with. They are a ball-seat design.


Here is the "wrong" nut, correct nut, and stock bolt.

If you are interested in going the same conversion here are the parts I used:

Studs:
StanceMagic 14mm x 1.5 32mm shank. If you search Amazon for VW stud conversion you should find it pretty easily.

Nuts:
Dorman 611-067 (Napa part number NOE-641-2135) These are actually stock lug nuts for a 1982 Porsche 911.

Hope this helps!!!

-Nick-

[H2OSB]

Definitely vitally important to use the correct seat type on lug bolts/nuts. I saw a video of an RX8, during an autocross, where all 4 wheels came off due to the wrong taper of the lug nuts.

I did this conversion on the front of my Super to match the rear, which has 944 brakes. Plus, I've never been a fan of lug bolts. I had a GTI for 14 years. After selling that car, I vowed to myself to switch any car with bolts to studs and nuts.

It's been some time, but I THINK I bought my studs from Topline because I knew they'd be the correct length. I'm pretty sure all German cars use ball seat (though I've never owned a BMW or Mercedes so I don't know for certain), so that's your safe bet, but the seat type is determined by the wheel. I lock tited my studs in with the thought if I need to replace the rotors, it's worthwhile to just replace the studs. I want them to be very secure

I had a 2006 Subaru LegacyGT onto which I installed Scion TC wheels. The thread size was the same, but the Subaru used a 60 degree taper and the Toyota wheels used a flat seat. Took me a couple tries to get the lug nuts right. I also kept a set of factory lug nuts with the spare in the event I had to use it.

H2OSB

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Nuts, bolts and the material they attach/support to is way more complicated than most of us know. I drew the plans up for 9 different specialty fasteners which 8 of them also became standards (not sure of the reason for the last fastener) for the country I live in.

Most countries have their specs on fasteners of which (I think) a lot, if not most of them are similar standards to the rest of the countries.

The material mix (many process specs here) of the fasteners (nuts, bolts, washers, etc.) is critical as is the processes for forming the material before the final shaping. The head designs and base of that it important as well as the radius (the size depends largely on the strength of the fastener for how it is to be used. How the threads are made on the "shank" (cut threads are not as strong as "rolled" threads due to the grain being cut through vs. compressed in the rolling process) and, if there is one, the "grip is important for the fasteners use.

The nut's shape, form and use design is important also. Not sure about how the threads are made so I can't be of help there. The threads in the block (for example) I think are usually cut, so the material and threading are both important.

Even the washers have their specs and designs. I got to draw up some that one wouldn't even think of until the design need occasion comes into play.

"Capturing" fasteners depends on both the design of the materials being assembled and add to that machining fasteners can cut, say a high grade's strength way down.

For what it is worth, Lee

I almost forgot... the wear factor. That and the over stretching of fasteners will usually shorten the limit us of them. Fasteners usually have a cycle limitation to them, e.g., tightening and loosening cycle as there is stretching of the fasteners and wear of the material involved.

Lee

[Bruce.m]

The best value radius nuts (IMHO) are steel Febi Bilstein. You can also use Porsche alloy nuts but the stud Length needs to be exactly correct as they are blind nuts.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

The best value radius nuts (IMHO) are steel Febi Bilstein. You can also use Porsche alloy nuts but the stud Length needs to be exactly correct as they are blind nuts.

I had to look up the term "Blind Nuts" as that term has many meanings for real and slang wise.

I have used them myself but again, there is a limit to their strength as if they were made too strong you couldn't compress them during installation .

Most everything has it's use... it is the miss-use that is scary!

Lee

[Bruce.m]

The Porsche nuts are soft and not though-hole. If the stud is too long the nut bottoms out while not clamping the wheel properly.

These are the Febi nuts as used on VW vans.

[Bruce.m]

(Porsche use those nuts for fitting the spare steel wheel, as the wheel is thinner than the stock alloy)

[Ol'fogasaurus]

One of the problems with the "closed hole" is that you can get a bad torque reading if the bolt is just touching the end of the nut and it isn't definable. You torque the nut but can get a wrong/incorrect reading.

There are advantages to a "closed out" nut such as water getting in the ASSY but... if that is what the manufacture has designed for, I guess it is the way to go.

"Caped" nuts were a custom thing years ago. The closed end of the nut was domed and chromed and (depending on the person) looked classy .

Lee

[H2OSB]

The Porsche nuts are soft and not though-hole. If the stud is too long the nut bottoms out while not clamping the wheel properly.

These are the Febi nuts as used on VW vans.

I didn't realize there were Febi, but those are the exact lug nuts I have. When I bought my disc brake kit from CSP, foolishly, I bought 10 of those (my car is 5x130 pcd)(I should have purchased 20, from the jump, and saved on shipping from Germany) I liked them so much better than the ball seat lug nuts I had, I went ahead and ordered 10 more. I can't explain why but these lug nuts just feel like they're higher quality. Might be the weight. They're heavier than the zinc plated ones I already had. And, yes, the seat radius just fits better, like Bruce said.

H2OSB

[Bruce.m]

The part number for a box of 20 is “01214” although they are often sold individually under that code.

About £23 for the box, at current prices

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Tried to look up the part number to see what it looked like and other information and the answer I got was amazing and not a lug nut conversion. It is a medical term for anesthesia for the upper leg to short cut the answer.

Lee

[H2OSB]

The ones I bought were just per unit through CSP. They don't have a set purchase option. They are also not identified by brand.

H2OSB

[Ol'fogasaurus]

H20SB, what I posted was just an interesting search showing that the part number you posted isn't available here (at least on-line) in the US, but the number I found turned out to be connected to something else here in the "states".

It is not uncommon to have duplicate numbers show up in different companies now days. It used to be that the numbering systems were controlled more than they may be now days. I have seen part numbers from a lot of places around the world (I worked in an aircraft company) and also different styles of part identification with at least one containing of 17 or 18 numbers. letters and symbols indicating the part's details and it wouldn't surprise me that there are longer part numbering systems.

I worked with people from all over the US and from people from all over the world (not every country that is) and learning their version of English was fun. They also had to get to know our version of English and words or sentences do vary all over the US.

Lee

[AdminSteve]

I carry the Febi lug nuts.

Febi Bilstein Lug Nut, M14-1.5, Ball Seat, Open Ended, Phosphate Coated, 46610

AdminSteve

[H2OSB]

Good to know I don't need to hit up a vendor in Germany to replace a lug nut if I find myself in need of one.

H2OSB