Upright type4 build

[Bruce.m]

After finishing a type1 rebuild, I’ve uncovered the “W” coded long block from its long resting place.

My previous T1 build with speeduino ECU & Honda CBR throttle bodies is in the Fuel Injection section (“Slowburn” project).

Specification is not set in stone. Have the 1.7 “W” engine plus a stripped 2.0 van short block.

Lots of parts collected over time, so hopefully it won’t get held up by budget constraints.

[Bruce.m]

The starting point

[Bruce.m]

The engine is going in my bug, hence the upright cooling is needed.
I bought the Cali-style alternator stand and pulley from CSP some time ago. It was nice to cut the packaging open on that.

I opted not to buy the full CSP kit with fibreglass “tins” and do the cut’n’shut method using two sets of T4 shrouds. This meant the stand didn’t come with the mounting block that goes under the stand.

First job was to make that. Used a 1” square block of aluminium. Needed cut to 88mm. The ends got drilled & tapped for M8 (centre). On the top, the stand uses two M8 tapped bores, 39mm between centres and left bore centre 19mm from the end. The case holes for the filler / breather get drilled to 9mm and the inside bumps get filed to fit the block snugly.

[Bruce.m]

Lost a few posts. . Log in times out & all the text is gone.

[Bruce.m]

The dipstick on the “W” case clashes with the alternator so have to bend the dipstick tube. Bought a new WBX dipstick that can bend, then cut / mark and thin the plastic end to fit in the tube:

[Bruce.m]

As with the type1 engine this will be getting an ECU for fuel & spark.

The open-source ECUs have come on a pace in the last couple of years. My T1 runs a Speeduino self assembled “NO2C” board with a arduino “mega” processor board. For basically the same cost, i got a Rusefi UAefi ecu. Pre-assembled with much faster processor, memory, 6 channels of fuel / spark. Built in wideband lambda module, Drive-by-wire, SD card logging, RTC button cell, plenty inputs.
There are a couple of firmware options, such as Rusefi & EpicEfi, depending on feature preferences.

Autotune capabilities, along with short & long term fuel trims.

Just got it, so plenty of research required given the uplift in features!

[Bruce.m]

Naturally, the ECU requires a timing signal.

Happily went back to VWSpeedshop since the pulley & trigger wheel Paul supplied for my T1 has worked perfectly.

The type4 version replaces the 4mm fan hub spacer.
I emailed CSP and was told their pulley is designed to work with that spacer fitted (although I think most leave it out).

Paul supplies a VR sensor with the kit although i will be using a ZF hall sensor as that has worked well for me previously. It’s used a similar M12 proximity sensor for mock up.

I also used button head bolts to give a bit extra clearance to the CSP pulley.

[Bruce.m]

Trying a 356 pulley. Works with a beetle fit Optibelt 11.3x912 fan belt. Since it comes in 3 parts its easy to flip to make extra offset towards the crank pulley. Comparing to a VW pulley it seems to be 1mm less offset so added a couple of shims between the pulley & alternator in case i go with a T1 pulley instead.

I’m debating if a type1 fan will survive, if i go for a 6.5k red line build, with the higher ratio 356 pulley. Would need a welded / balanced fan as a minimum. So keeping options open

[wreck]

I don't know if you'll need the 356 top pulley , the bigger type 4 heads work really well at getting rid of heat . A 4 channel CHT set up is worth the effort , extra vanes at the base of the shroud (above the flaps if you used them ) to guide air flow to the more shrouded cylinder to even cylinder temps means you can drop the fan speed .
I'm interested to know how the Rusefi UAefi ecu works out . DC Werx now have a STM37 board to replace the arduino mega boards . Interesting stuff on the cheap ECU's .

[Bruce.m]

I have considered the STM32 board to upgrade my NO2C but I would need to replace the mosfets. So for now focusing on the new engine, although I could swap the Type1 to use the new ECU id burn up spare time doing a full retune from scratch (new firmware will no doubt require that)

[Eddie010]

Looks good Bruce,
you have to watch the 356 pulley. Had a few broken. You must use the minimum amount of shims given by porsche for it to work.
I found out the hard way.

I am curius how you ecu is perfoming I am not so good with that kind of stuff.
So hope to find it out in a simple manner here..

[Bruce.m]

Have 10 shims on there but i’ll check how many the 356 uses. If i can find a badly welded VW pulley I may swap to that.

As we my T1 build (running Honda throttle bodies, with the original injectors, fuel rails & stepper Idle circuit), i’m also thinking of something original for the T4 intake.

Once the cooling tin is figured out, I’ll decide on the engine spec.

[Bruce.m]

Been working on the tinware. I’m not a good fabricator so it’s taking a while. I did pick up a cheap beetle alternator pulley at a VW show recently & easily knocked out the hub, so i now have both pulley options.

One question for the group.

At #1 cylinder, the spark plug is located very close to the doghouse cooling flap arms. Seems like it could rub on the plug leads which could be a poor situation. Has anyone run into this situation & have a successful modification? I imagine many upright builds ditch the thermostat set up but i live in a cooler climate & ideally would like that to be functional.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

I've been using a 356 pulley for years, nothings happened. Not to say it won't. The fan is a standard one. Those welded fans are a bit of money. Buying one, should reduce the worry I suppose.
My issue is the case saddles are 4 thou to big for 0.50 bearings. Don't just trust the guy who buys the tools and says he can do the lign bore. No problem. Can he F.. it up, yes he can.

[Bruce.m]

My brother has said he’ll get me a welded & balanced fan for my birthday, so i’ll have that covered.
Missed out on a set of nos Mahle main bearings on ebay (std), i was outbid. Took a punt which was a gamble since ive not measured the case / cranks.