Re Ferbing my 1911 turbo.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Hi guys.
So I've started a refresh of my 1911. It was iny old 67 bug. Sold that kept the engine. Engine didn't have issues when took out. Ran good, oil pressure good.
I've cleaned the bottom end, so nice and clean again. I can still see that the markings I put on parts, are still there. Like no 1 cylinder, No 1 con rod etc. So it's not done many miles since last time.
Now me being a fussy, ocd guy. I've noticed, when I sit on this case to hold it down and pull up on the flywheel, there is the tiniest bit of movement like a couple of thou movement.
I'm seeing this as OK. It's an accumulation of all 4 main bearings moving, or the crank moviing in the bearings, not sure which.
Would you guys leave it be, or Investigate further.
Me, I don't really want to, you know what it's like. It's hassle.
The Web cam and the followers are pristine. Zero marks, follower tops like a chrome finish.
The other thing is
I'm using the original oil light switch with a Tee off for turbo oil feed, that area is looking a bit congested. I had the plugs on the case plugged years ago. So all around that area of the case has screw in plugs. The oil cooler location has a recirculating block off plate fitted.
The question is which of the many screwed in plugs can I use to access oil pressure for either the oil pressure switch or the turbo oil feed. This case had a weird oil circulation issue about 10 years ago, to which Pile rectified with the surgestion of doing away with the original filter location, blocking that off and full flowing it off the 2 other screw plug fittings I had done below the distributor. This worked good, so I'm not gunna change that configuration.
Any pics of which plug to use for an extra oil pressure outlet would be appreciated . Thanks

[Bruce.m]

Depending on the cooler bypass plate… you could take the turbo oil feed from that? The CSP version has a small drilling and blanking plug. The empi style with two ports (drilled inside to link ports) could also work?

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Hi.
I'm using an Empi cooler bracket with oil out and in threaded galleries. I've modified that to be a cooler block off that links one out put to the other Internally. Like if the cooler was fitted. The outputs on the outer part of the cooler bracket have been welded up. Are those galleries permanently flowing oil. I thought they were relief valve operated.
Thanks for the reply.

[Bruce.m]

The relief valve opens when there is pressure drop across the oil ports (due to thick oil being forced through the cooler). With the bypass adapter, there shouldn’t be any restriction & oil should flow through it. You could shim the relief spring to make extra sure it can’t open.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Ahhh. Thanks Bruce. I'll investigate that further

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Next question is.
Is the stock type 4 oil pump MAN enough for an up right fan housing, with pipes to the beetle style cooler, and pipes to the external oil cooler and filter set up. It has worked for years, but is it on its limit. Does a 30mm fit good, and clear a CSP pulley
Thanks guy's

[Bruce.m]

I’ll be going for 30mm pump (probably, 26mm at minimum). I have a good type4 pump with fresh o-rings but would rather have more flow & lighter weight oil to make sure the rod bearings have plenty of oil. Just need to adjust the tooth depth to match the T4 pump dimension. If I remember correctly it’s between a 3 rivet & 4 rivet length

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

OK, thanks. So it's a 30 mm. And press the drive tang further into the cog to make it work, and to get the plate to fit on the front.
I had been using 20/50 in it to be fair. To which isn't the best, the general concensus seams to be a 10/40.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

OK, thanks. So it's a 30 mm. And press the drive tang further into the cog to make it work, and to get the plate to fit on the front.
I had been using 20/50 in it to be fair. To which isn't the best, the general concensus seams to be a 10/40.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Right, we'll. Turns out, it's my case, it's been align bored too big for the bearings. So it needs to be done to 1 mm. And that's a gamble at that. Plus bearings are only available at 2 mm from arhendorp vw in Germany. So it's 2 mm.
Looks like another case needed.

[Bruce.m]

That’s a pain . Sourcing bearings isn’t easy either.
Do you know who did the machining work previously?

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

Yes. A guy over here. It's OK having all the tools. But knowing how to use them is another matter

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

On the plus side I've bought a standard grind 66 crank.
Mine was 1mm. So that'll be a good change over.
Bought some. 050 case 025 crank standard thrust bearings.
Bought, another set or rods. Mine are balanced with Arp bolts but the previous match weight mission made them look rough.
I'll tap out the Arp bolts and swap them over.
Ordered a stage 1 pressure plate. Stage 2 is too much for the street. Re balance of the crank assembly needed.
So it's really, location of an open chimney case.

[GARRICK.CLARK1]

I'm thinking of getting a CB oil pump with the in out pipes on the pump face. Mine is an upright type 1 style. So, the way I had it before was,
Original filter blocked off
Original oil pump
Original oil cooler bocked off with a recirculating plate
Case drilled n tapped for full flow,
External oil filter
External cooler
Type 1 cooler in 36 hp shroud.
So that's a fair bit of piping.
Is there a more simple way of doing it.
Do I need the uprated oil pump.
I think I do. What say yee.

[wreck]

If you have a good type 4 oil pump , get new o rings for it and run it . put an oil filter housing back on (put a small plug in the bypass ) ,Get a Mocal thermostat sandwich plate and use that to run oil lines to the cooler/coolers . don't run the cooler in the shroud . I run a slightly smaller oil filter . Australian Ryco Z89A .( Used on a lot of Japanese cars .)

I've been running a stage 2 pressure plate on the street daily for years , over 40,000km I extended the clutch arm to the same length as the longest one fitted to later bugs .