ShopTalk Forums | Aircooled VW Tech & Restoration Help

Hi Guys I'm going to upgrade to a 30 mm shadek pump. I have full flow like a type 1, and don't think the 24 mm standard one is good enough.
So which of the shadek pumps in a 30mm is the one to purchase. Thanks

Get in touch with Jorge from EMW in California , (he prefers phone calls) , he has pump bodies that are sleeved to the correct diameter . It is the best solution . When I built my engine , I made a spacer out of 1.5mm aluminium , then clearanced it for the cam bolts etc . it was still loosy goosy in the case , so used ultra grey and fitted it when I put the case halves together , then made sure no rtv was in the oil passages . pain in the rear.

I have emailed them a few times. No reply. So saying he likes phone calls explains it. A think, with shipping I could possibly just get the one vw heritage sells. Albeit a 26mm one from CB. Two which, is a shadeck. But is it a good fit in the case.
Thanks

You are correct though, the general concensus is that the pumps are slightly too small. Some are wrapping the body with aluminum tape and cutting holes for the oil inlet and oil output. Not sure I like that idea.

FYI. Not sure what Charles does to them -- LN Engineering 30mm Full Flow Oil Pump

I wrapped my 26mm Shadeck with aluminium tape for the 2316cc a few years ago, no problems so far. What’s not to like?

It just sounds like a bodge, but if it works. Then that's good.
Looking at my type 4 pump. I might yet just strip it down and do a rebuild on it. There's no wear on the gears, and has been fine in the past.
The cooler pipes will be shorter this time round too. So perhaps a 26mm isn't needed.

GARRICK.CLARK1 wrote: ↑Fri Jul 10, 2026 5:28 am It just sounds like a bodge, but if it works. Then that's good.
Looking at my type 4 pump. I might yet just strip it down and do a rebuild on it. There's no wear on the gears, and has been fine in the past.
The cooler pipes will be shorter this time round too. So perhaps a 26mm isn't needed.

O-ring it?

Yeah, sounds a better idea.

OK. So I've bought a CB maxi 3.
I know I have to get some jobs done on it to work, but I've been reading what others have been saying, and have a plan.
The pump body, if undersize is going to get a sleave added to it.
The idler gear is going to have a new stepped one made also.
The advert says on CB site, says they have a stepped pin already. But I'm sure this is true. If the one I get has this, then that's a bonus, but 1w way or another, it'll get sorted.

OK. I've got a 4 rivet 26mm pump. I'm wondering if I can take 4mm off the pump boss to make the pump sit flat against the case. The pump doesn't owe me anything so it'll be an experiment.
The pin that locates into the cam, might need to be re worked.
I. E pushed further onto the gear.
Seams like hassle, but if it saves me buying a type 1 to type 4 converted pump. I'll have saved a bit of ££

If you shorten the boss, i’d stake the boss around the pin to ensure it doesn’t move. Others would fit a cross pin but the pin is hard. I adapted a 4 rivet pump to fit a 3 rivet cam. Wasn’t too difficult

Good stuff. The main boss needs to be at least 5 mm shorter for it to sit flat on the case face, the idler pin needs around 2 mm. I'll try it,

most people start with a 3 bolt oil pump because there is less to remove to clearance the cam , you also need to make sure the oil passages are lined up as close as possible . The reason I made a 1.5mm spacer .

Was it absolutely essential to make the spacer. A 1.5 mm spacer. I take it, that's an extension of the pump body and goe's between 2 pump body to case gaskets, which also gives better alignment of pump oil gallery's.
I'm wanting to try this pump, because. It's a vw one, it's not cost owt, so hopefully, when the idler pin is worked on, it will be stronger than a new one. I could be wrong though.