Spanner nuts

Bucko1 · Post by **Bucko1** » Tue Jul 17, 2001 5:51 am

I've broken two breaker bars (Sears craftman so I can replace them!) trying to break loose the rear axle spanner nuts. Do I need to get a bigger breaker bar? I know those things are torked to 200+ ft pounds, but I can't seem to get these loose. I've got a 73 beetle, and it needs rear brake bad. I've tried using a bar to slip over the breaker bar (1/2 inch breaker), but it doesn't help. Any ideas???

Chris_914 · Post by **Chris_914** » Tue Jul 17, 2001 7:44 am

1/2 inch breaker is not big enough, I have broken several myself. You have several options: 1) move up to a 3/4 inch breaker and socket (if you have a Harbor Freight Tools, or some other place that has cheap tools, in your area this shouldn't be too expensive) 2) Those hour glass shaped tools that Empi and others sell are effective when smacked with a hammer, but I have heard this is hard on the components. 3) if you have access to am air compressor and a heavy duty impact this makes quick work of the job, even if you have to take it to a shop to get it busted loose 4) its a bit pricey but in the vw mags I have seen a tool set offered that is a gear set to multiply torque, works on rear wheel axle nuts and flywheel gland nuts. this one is really slick makes it possible to get 200 ft/lbs out of a 1/2 ratchet. Good luck

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Chris

Bug Bite · Post by **Bug Bite** » Tue Jul 17, 2001 4:58 pm

the tool that Chris is referring to is the "Torque-Meister". Kymco sells them. you can use a 3/8" ratchet. 30ft/lbs applied equals 270ft/lbs at the nut.

aussiebug · Post by **aussiebug** » Thu Jul 19, 2001 11:29 pm

The cheapest tool for this is a 3/4" bent bar and a 36mm socket (1 7/8" SAE or 7/8" Whitworth will fit too).

You can put a piece of pipe over the bar to use as a cheater, and if the whole brake drum wants to turn, bolt a length of angle iron to the brake drum and sit it on the ground as an anti torque tool.

Oh - and mark the axle and the nut before you loosen it, so you can easily line up the castellations with the hole again, then you don't need to try and measure 217 ft lbs.

Always use the split pin - never leave it out after fastening.

This method means no nasty shock loads (hammer method) to the gearbox, and once they have been lossened once, they are usually no problem the next time you need to do the brakes.

Regards,

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Rob
Rob and Dave's aircooled VW pages
Repair and Maintenance for the home mechanic
http://www.geocities.com/aussiebug1970/index.html

mikeb · Post by **mikeb** » Fri Jul 20, 2001 9:18 am

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by aussiebug:
<B>The cheapest tool for this is a 3/4" bent bar and a 36mm socket (1 7/8" SAE or 7/8" Whitworth will fit too).

You can put a piece of pipe over the bar to use as a cheater, and if the whole brake drum wants to turn, bolt a length of angle iron to the brake drum and sit it on the ground as an anti torque tool.

</B><HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

I have said it before and I'll say it again TORQUE MEISTER. You can do the axle nut with a 3/8 ratchet and one hand-you don't even need to have the parking brake on to loosen the nut.

These things are absolutely awesome and just knowing that you have this tool so you don't have to hassle with all of the other methods is completely worth the price.

stevestromberg · Post by **stevestromberg** » Fri Jul 20, 2001 9:30 am

You need to grt a Nut Whacker, It s a flat bar that go,s over the nut and the breaker bar go's in the N W put your weight on it and have your buddy hit the Whacker with a large hammer. It will come off. E+C has them for $9.95 call 818 342 1606. Steve

Bugeyed · Post by **Bugeyed** » Sat Jul 21, 2001 10:47 pm

Be careful when using an impact wrench or sledge hammers. You don't want to do damage to your tranny.