transmission dimensions (length)
-
vwkurt
- Posts: 52
- Joined: Wed May 02, 2001 1:01 am
transmission dimensions (length)
I want to thank the guys for the replies to my trans question below. It appears that the 71 bus was upgraded to a 6 rib 091 trans. The PO said that it was longer than the original trans and required some finagling to get it in. This would explain the shifting prob. Does this sound plausible? Ijust picked up a good 73 trans to put in and I am wondering if different year trannies are different lengths, or are they all the same? Any suggestions are greatly appreciated.
-
Shawn T
- Posts: 122
- Joined: Mon Nov 26, 2001 12:01 am
transmission dimensions (length)
Dimension from face of bellhousing to leading edge of seal on nose cone (the seal is external on 002's and internal on 091's)
002's = 25 5/8" (both 3 and 5 ribs that I have)
091's = 25 15/16"
end of seal to mount boss on nose cone is the same on 002's and 091's.
You didn't say if it is hard to get out of 3rd going to 4th, 2nd, or both.
Here's one other possibility if the problem is during a down shift to 2nd:
If the clutch adjustment is okay, and the engine/trans alignment is right and you eliminate the aftermarket shifter and the problem persists check one more thing before you pull the trans.
It's a bit of a trick but disconnect the shift coupling from the nose cone shift shaft and move it forward until it clears the end of the shaft. Support the trans with a jack and remove front and top mount bolts.
Carefully lower nose of trans down just far enough to remove the nose cone.
Check the selector link ball (the end of the shift lever goes into it. The stock one is a small grey, plastic ball. If it is missing you're not pulling the 3/4 selector shaft far enough before the linkage thinks it can drop down to the 1/2 selector shaft. There is a steel replacement ball that corrects this problem.
Having said that, it's my opinion that an internal problem could develop even after a few weeks and even with a rebuild from a reputable shop. Sometimes s**t happens.
Good luck,
Shawn T.
002's = 25 5/8" (both 3 and 5 ribs that I have)
091's = 25 15/16"
end of seal to mount boss on nose cone is the same on 002's and 091's.
You didn't say if it is hard to get out of 3rd going to 4th, 2nd, or both.
Here's one other possibility if the problem is during a down shift to 2nd:
If the clutch adjustment is okay, and the engine/trans alignment is right and you eliminate the aftermarket shifter and the problem persists check one more thing before you pull the trans.
It's a bit of a trick but disconnect the shift coupling from the nose cone shift shaft and move it forward until it clears the end of the shaft. Support the trans with a jack and remove front and top mount bolts.
Carefully lower nose of trans down just far enough to remove the nose cone.
Check the selector link ball (the end of the shift lever goes into it. The stock one is a small grey, plastic ball. If it is missing you're not pulling the 3/4 selector shaft far enough before the linkage thinks it can drop down to the 1/2 selector shaft. There is a steel replacement ball that corrects this problem.
Having said that, it's my opinion that an internal problem could develop even after a few weeks and even with a rebuild from a reputable shop. Sometimes s**t happens.
Good luck,
Shawn T.
-
rich2481
- Posts: 1539
- Joined: Tue Dec 18, 2001 12:01 am
transmission dimensions (length)
You still said it used to work the started to get held up in 3rd. You also said you had to shut off the motor to get it out of 3rd. If this is true, then I would think the clutch wasnt engaging all the way.