914? for sale

Tarnx · Post by **Tarnx** » Thu Oct 26, 2000 7:41 pm

A fellow in town has a 2l 914 engine for sale that he bought at the Seiverville Bug Show in May. It was supposed to be running when it was removed from the car. I need to know what to look for to tell if it is a good engine. I have never seen one and have only heard of them. Are they good to build a sroked, bored engine from. Do they have good heads. Are they fuel injected or carbed. Then engine is supposed to be complete from the clutch to the fan belt. Is $350.00 too much? I need help to invest in this one as I already have other irons in the fire. Thanks.

Dave_Darling · Post by **Dave_Darling** » Thu Oct 26, 2000 9:07 pm

The 2.0 914 engines have a very similar bottom-end to any other Type IV engine. They have the boss for the windage tray cast into the case, they should not have the mechanical fuel pump boss opened up. They should also not have the boss on the rear (front in 914 orientation) of the case for the dipstick and filler opened up. They would have a dipstick tube right alongside the breather box. The engine code would start with GA (for 73-74 US version), GB (for 73-74 or maybe through 76 version), or GC (for 75-76 version or 76 912E version).

The engines would all be fuel injected--the only 914s to ever be delivered with carbs were the Sixes and the European-spec 1.8s.

The heads are both good and bad for performance. Good in that they have larger valves than any other stock Type IV head (that I've read about), that they have a spark plug that is a bit more centrally-located to give better burn characteristics, and that they have better-flowing ports. Bad in that those changes seem to have made the heads quite a bit more fragile than the other versions. But if what you want is the valve sizes that come in the 2.0 914 head, and you're not trying to boost the power to very high levels, they will work quite well.

2.0 914 heads will have three studs holding the intake runners onto the heads. The spark plugs will also exit the engine tin on the side parts of the tin, instead of through the flat top part of the tin.

If you're going to build a real monster motor, you'll probably want to re-work the heads beyond the stock valve sizes, ports, etc. If that is the case, I think it makes sense to start with a set of cheap heads that are robust to start with. So I suggest starting with 1.7 or 1.8 heads, and going from there.

$350 for a running 2.0 motor is a good price. It seems to be about average for a non-running core. But prices vary a whole lot...

BTW, I bought a set of good (no cracks at all! Whee!) 2.0 heads for about $500 a couple of years ago. They're worth something to folks with 2.0 914 engines.

--DD

tarnx · Post by **tarnx** » Fri Oct 27, 2000 7:37 pm

Thanks for the info. I think I will opt for the 1800 heads as I already have a 2000 and my money is short and my wife is getting suspicious. Four motors in the basement already.

coachreed · Post by **coachreed** » Sat Oct 28, 2000 9:52 pm

tarnx-

By your reply in this thread, it sounds like you are passing on this 2.0, is that right? If so, where is it located? Did you get to find out if it was indeed a 2.0? Email me if it is available (email is in the sig). I had picked up a 1.7 or 1.8. The guy thought it was a 2.0 but I picked up on details he did not know about. I would like to have the 2.0 if it is available to me so please let me know.

Coach... I mean Randy (I often forget who I really am)

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