H Series Engines

BluSpecs · Post by **BluSpecs** » Mon Jul 15, 2002 10:45 am

I have heard plenty of people say it was one of the worst cases produced, but I've never heard why.

What Makes the H seris such a bad Case to use?

bradleygt2 · Post by **bradleygt2** » Mon Jul 15, 2002 12:40 pm

i do,nt know what is bad about a H case but i am getting ready to buy one from a junk yard.and i would like to hear some comments about this my self.

Post by **Marc** » Mon Jul 15, 2002 2:15 pm

H0 is a 1967 case and is identical to a `66 F0, which is to say it's not a bad case except for the small oil passages that are barely adequate to keep a cross-drilled crank fed.
H5 (1968/69) or B5 (from a bus) are made out of an AS41 alloy that is the softest known to man. They pound out, warp and crack worse than any other case and were barely adequate for a 1500 singleport when they were new. The 1970 B6 (and early `71 non-ribbed AE) are better because they have larger oil passages, but you should still be looking for a ribbed AE or a later case.

PEPPE · Post by **PEPPE** » Mon Jul 15, 2002 2:56 pm

SSST! Once I built a 1776 with engle 110 and progressive carb out of a 67 single relief H case...
It worked for the last 4 year but it's not a work i am proud of.

Mitch · Post by **Mitch** » Tue Jul 16, 2002 12:23 pm

Don't waste your time with a single relief case. Get a good dual relief case unless you are going TOTALLY stock!

PEPPE · Post by **PEPPE** » Thu Jul 18, 2002 11:01 pm

i had to put stud inserts (brass) on many studs
then i put inside a 26mm oil pump, with a spacer to allow cam rotation
then i enlarged oil gallery from pump to main oil gallery and enlarger also main oil gallery.
it was funny and only to see how it worked...
it worked, but a dual relief case is always better
Peppe

BluSpecs · Post by **BluSpecs** » Fri Jul 19, 2002 5:34 am

Thanks for the replies.

I think I'll spring for the New Dual Releaf case.

I found a place called Painters grinding Out here in Denver The will sell me an AS41 Case bored out for 90.5 cylinders and tap it for full flow for $375.00. The place has good reputaion as well.

Does that sound like a decent price?

Pillow · Post by **Pillow** » Fri Jul 19, 2002 8:14 am

BluSpecs, for a NEW case that sounds very fair to me.

Just last night I cleaned up an "H" case. Seems to be a replacement case because there are no serial numbers on it, just "H" and nothing. If I can get a decent allignbore out of it I think it will be a good stock 1600 SP case to build up for a spare... Maybe make an all used experiment motor out of it like Peppe was talking about in another post

... The one thing that always annoys me is that even for a spare parts junker engine you end up with like $150 in it. New generator, fan belt, plugs, bearings, allign-bore ($25), gasket set, new exhaust valves, spray paint, rings(? - depends how cheap you get), and plug wires. Probably a few other tid bits, but still hard to just take a pile of parts and start bolting it together.

... I almost hate to admit it, but the next two engines I build will fall into this turd pile category.

The satisfaction for the one on the stand now that I am building right (for the '67) will have to last a while until my winter project gets on the stand, CIS FI 1955cc.... Muuuhahahaha

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Adrian Pillow
'66 VW Westfalia - "Biscuit"
'67 VW Deluxe Westfakia - "Dino"
'79 Porsche 911 SC - "Cochese"

Post by **Marc** » Fri Jul 19, 2002 9:15 am

Years ago my first racing partner had a deal going with a local foreigh wrecking yard - we kept them supplied with "used" engines to sell and they gave us everything we needed to keep the racecars on the track. We'd pick up a truckload of cores and bring about 2 out of three of them back in running condition, average total investment in each was maybe $5 (we even filled them with used race oil) but they all ran fine and none were ever brought back, so they must've met or exceeded people's expectations for a used $350 VW engine. You can learn a lot about how engines wear and what you can get away with doing crap work like this.
We did one big-bore 40HP in the middle of the night after returning from the track (and with a generous supply of Budweiser) for one of the pitcrew guys' bug - The ONLY new part was the oil pump cover gasket, everything else literally came out of scrap barrels, and it was still running strong (he flogged it HARD) when he sold the car 4 years later. Gotta love `em.

PEPPE · Post by **PEPPE** » Fri Jul 19, 2002 11:48 pm

sometimies i built "CHEAP" engines.
i use sealant instead of new gaskets eherei can and also under the washers of main bearing studs.
silicon sealant around flywheel oring and
newspaper gasket on pump cover.

newspaper gasket seal very well...

MASSIVE TYPE IV · Post by **MASSIVE TYPE IV** » Sat Jul 20, 2002 8:57 am

H cases crack;

Around cylinder spigots, especially number one. it is not uncommon to see an H case cracked all the way to the upper right bellhouse bolt.

They crack near the last pair of 8mm studs that places torque on the rear of the cam .

They crack clear through the center main webs, and I have had some with internal cracks in the oil galeys, resulting in a loss of oil pressurer that will never be found without pressure testing every galley..

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Jake Raby
Raby's Aircooled Technology
www.aircooledtechnology.com

PEPPE · Post by **PEPPE** » Sat Jul 20, 2002 2:30 pm

to be simple, H cases crack almost always around head stud holes. as if these try to detach the piece of case around the stud hole.
had some cracked also under the area where main bearing studs (big ones) are threaded in the case.
Peppe

fish · Post by **fish** » Sat Jul 20, 2002 2:50 pm

I have to add that H cases also pull case savers. One of the earliest things I learned about the VW engine. I was trying to retorque the heads on a motor & the case savers were pulling, I called a local shop & spoke to an old guru & he replied with "is it a H case?" I looked at it and ansewered yes, and he told me "that H stands for HORRIBLE"

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TYPE 4's RULE
Dougs Buggs-N-Bunnies
Mesa AZ