Can I rebuild my own rods?

stkrmtr · Post by **stkrmtr** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:19 am

Is there a rebuild kit I can but for this? I think we have all the equipment here at work I need but I have zero expirence with this? Does anyone know what all is involed and was it worth it to any one who has tried.

Post by **Marc** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 8:57 am

You can replace the bushings and ream them to fit, but a truly "rebuilt" rod has had the big end resized by milling off a bit of material from the parting surface and then torquing the rod back together and precision-honing the hole to size.
It's not at all expensive to have it done if you deal with a machine shop that specializes in VW stuff and is set up for production runs - RIMCO charges $26/set: http://www.rimcovw.com/serv01.htm

So the only real justification for DIY'ing is for personal satisfaction...I wouldn't bother with it.

stkrmtr · Post by **stkrmtr** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 9:19 am

We have a brigdeport mill(sp?) and the equipment to hone hydraulic cylinders of all sizes where I work so doing a few sets at a time could net me some much needed funding for my project(s) do you know the tools needed for this procedure?

britegreenVWSB · Post by **britegreenVWSB** » Thu Jul 25, 2002 9:46 am

If you are rebuilding stock rods and if they are going into a performance application, you might want to magnuflux the rods before you start building them (checks for cracks) and if they check out, you might want to consider replacing the rod bolts and nuts as well as part of your rebuild.

TG

Pablo · Post by **Pablo** » Fri Jul 26, 2002 3:19 pm

As Joe says, a shop experienced at rod rebuilding has a huge advantage. In addition, because they usually rebuild ten sets at a time, they can match rods in weight groups even before balancing the individual rods end-to-end.

Paul

danimal · Post by **danimal** » Fri Jul 26, 2002 7:52 pm

stkmtr, it's probably not worth it for you to mess with.

i've seen screwed-up "rebuilt rods" from some of the top shops in the vw business... the biggest failure mode seems to be in getting the rod cap on the big end machined exactly square... it sits crooked on the rod, so that the rod rubs the sides of the rod journal in the crank.

some builders will torque down the rod cap, then flat-sand the side of the big end to make it fit... if the big end is bored perfectly round, the motor will run a long time like that, but it's not the right choice.

the best reworked rods that i've ever seen have always come from gene berg.

dan
oceanstreetvideo.com

[This message has been edited by danimal (edited 07-26-2002).]

Max Welton · Post by **Max Welton** » Sun Jul 28, 2002 9:26 am

Also, if your are anywhere Phoenix check with V.W. Performance (Steve Hollingsworth).
http://www.bug-o-rama.com/stevesite/

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Max Welton http://63.230.74.177/