ShopTalk Forums | Aircooled VW Tech & Restoration Help

I am just about to complete my first rebuild and I have managed to chip the brass distributor gear when reinstalling the distributor drive shaft, DOH!, is there an easy was to clean any debris out of the case before I fill it with oil for the first time?
The case is full flowed, but any debris would get stuck in the oil cooler as this is before the filter, so I don't want to risk ignoring it.

Would opening the sump and jetwashing inside the case via the fuel pump hole work, or would that just wash all my assembley lubricant off?

Should I fill it with oil, rock it around on the engine stand then pour that away? Or would that just stick any small particles to the case walls?

What about filling it with degreaser, then jetwash, then oil and rock?

I have already had to crack the case open twice, once for a tight cam and once for a dropped wrist pin clip, so I really don't want to open it again if there is any another way.

When the time comes to start the engine, I know that it has to be run at ~2000 rpm for 20 mins or so to break in the cam, and revved to break in the rings, but in which order? Do I then change the oil and filter immediatley after, then again at 300 miles or so? And finallyu, how many miles do I have to drive like a wussy for before I can finally consider the engine "broken in " and ready to go full throtle?

Thanks.

I know a guy who stuffed one of his h-beam rods and a CW-crank because he decided the bits of aluminum left behind from his case saver machining wouldnt get past his filter/screen.

He had his chance to clean the case but he blew it, silly bugger.

The cam didn't seem too bad when laid in the case, but once it was closed and a few bolts tightened then the cam would jam solid at at two points in it's rotation. I was hoping that it wouldn't be too bad once the endplay was shimmed, but in the end I just had to open the case again. That wasn't too bad, but opening the case to find the wrist pin clip , as my sister had "definatley" seen it fall in was a pain, especially since the clip wasn't in the case after all!

[This message has been edited by 71Vdubber (edited 08-04-2002).]

you should never have to split the case for a tight cam... that should have shown up early in the test fitting stage.

i would split the case and find the missing brass piece.

right now you are paying some dues, we've all been there and it sucks.


dan
oceanstreetvideo.com