Best paint finish.

ck85abc · Post by **ck85abc** » Sun Aug 17, 2003 12:53 pm

Everything else equal up to your base coat.

1. base
2. base
3. wetsand with 2000
4. base
5. wetsand with 2000
6. tack clear
7. clear
8. clear
9. wetsand with 2000
10. clear
11. wetsand with 2000
12. buff by hand.

ALso what is the best way to buff? So that you see no little lines while dirrect sunlight is on it?

If there is anything wrong with what I said please say so and say what should be different.

Bobnotch · Post by **Bobnotch** » Mon Aug 18, 2003 7:54 am

This should work quite nice. I wouldn't sand the base coat if its a metallic though, as it could cause the weird orientation of the flakes. But since you plan on recoating the base after sanding it should be ok.

I normally use a buffing machine to buff up the finish, because doing it by hand takes forever. You just need to stay off the edges.

You need to use a good swirl remover to eliminate the swirl marks after buffing. 3M makes several good products for this. Good luck and let us know how it turned out.

ck85abc · Post by **ck85abc** » Mon Aug 18, 2003 2:00 pm

lol, I wish this was coming up sometime soon but it is not. SOme day though. So you can get those swirl lines out even if you use a machine to buff it? That would not be a problem then. Why stay away from the edges? A friend of mine did his on edges and it turned out fine.

All_talk · Post by **All_talk** » Thu Aug 21, 2003 11:30 am

If your not VERY careful you will burn or cut through the edges with a power buffer.

As far as I know there is no reason to sand the base coat, its just color, it builds like primer so orange peel and such should be a problem, and if your using it to level, do it in primer its much cheaper. I?m not sure you need to sand between layers of clear, not that it would hurt (though it could provide another opportunity for delamination), but if you put on enough clear (specially the edges) to block out to a flat surface the final wet sand should be enough.

Gary

ck85abc · Post by **ck85abc** » Thu Aug 21, 2003 3:52 pm

All_talk wrote:If your not VERY careful you will burn or cut through the edges with a power buffer.

As far as I know there is no reason to sand the base coat, its just color, it builds like primer so orange peel and such should be a problem, and if your using it to level, do it in primer its much cheaper. I’m not sure you need to sand between layers of clear, not that it would hurt (though it could provide another opportunity for delamination), but if you put on enough clear (specially the edges) to block out to a flat surface the final wet sand should be enough.

Gary

Ive never personally seen sanded base coat but it is supposed to look different. That is why if you are cutting and acidently go through the clear, then clear the area again were you went through will look different no matter what since sanded base looks different than unsanded base. You never know what to believe though until you do it yourself. i might have to test it someday.

The reason for clearing sanding clearing is because the more clear you put on at a time the hazier it gets. Again just stuff I have been told.

bufferman · Post by **bufferman** » Mon Oct 27, 2003 12:11 am

sanding between base coats level it out and removes any dirt that might have got in it and sanding between the clear will make every coat after come out smoother and remover any dirt that got in and there is a thing called tape for the edges as far as swirls you just have to work them out swirl removeres just cover them up and they return after a few good washes there are many different products and pads to use to remove the swirls and if buffed right you will get very few swirls in it no one said it was a fast and easy job to get it done right time =money thats is why some jobs are very costly and others are not old saying u get what you pay for