Will I have enough power-do I need to uprade the alternator?

dub.style · Post by **dub.style** » Thu Nov 27, 2003 12:26 pm

I have finished restoring a 1972 Super Beetle, and am now in the process of upgrading the audio system. I'll currently be running it off of the stock 72' alternator. I am looking at having a 600-800 watt 2 channel amp running 2 10" subs.

Will my charging system be able to handle this push? seeing how its an older car? or should I look at beefing up the alternator. Would adding 1 farad capacitors into the system benefit at all either? Thanks alot for any opinions!

Bobby74 · Post by **Bobby74** » Fri Nov 28, 2003 12:24 am

An amp like that usually requires 40amps or so to drive it. I believe the early alternators put out 38amps, but I'm not sure. A capacitor definatly wouldn't hurt. It will buffer the power draw from your alternator and should keep the regulator from burning out. Does anyone else know the power output of the External regulator Alternators?

I know the internal regulator (single wire, + idiot light) alternators put out the most at around 50Amps for the standard power factory one and 75amps for the high power kit.

ANT · Post by **ANT** » Fri Nov 28, 2003 12:56 am

Aircooled.net offers a brand new 75amp alternator for $250 http://aircooled.net/new-bin/viewproduc ... 05&cartid=

They also have a rebuilt unit for $199.95, and a new chrome version for $299.95
-ANT

dub.style · Post by **dub.style** » Fri Nov 28, 2003 10:35 am

Thanks alot...I might run a bit of a smaller amp for now, just to be safe, and some capacitors then. My budget's kind of tight for a new alternator, so onece the systems in, I'll save up for that next... hopefully my charging system will be able to handle the stress for a little bit, at least I'm hoping.

I've also heard those yellowtop batteries can benefit as well. does anyone know how much they go for? price wise?

1970beetle · Post by **1970beetle** » Fri Nov 28, 2003 6:04 pm

dub.style wrote:Thanks alot...I might run a bit of a smaller amp for now, just to be safe, and some capacitors then. My budget's kind of tight for a new alternator, so onece the systems in, I'll save up for that next... hopefully my charging system will be able to handle the stress for a little bit, at least I'm hoping.

I've also heard those yellowtop batteries can benefit as well. does anyone know how much they go for? price wise?

Sir, a CAP will not save you, it may reduce the dimming a bit, but still it's like a band aid, it's a fix for the symtom, not the problem. Oh and you might wanna look at autozone or some other local auto place for an alt, as they are much cheaper vs aircooled.net(no affence or nuthin). I'm lookin to put a single 12 with a 500 watt amp+ a ~100x2 amp for my front speakers when I get my bug all sorted out(need a new tranny and my clutch stutters, and I need to get an aftermarket exhaust+ carb to cure my manafold heat problem.

Bobby74 · Post by **Bobby74** » Fri Nov 28, 2003 10:52 pm

1970Beetle: You should be fine for power with a 500 watt amp and a second ~200 watt amp. I run a 1200 watt amp (absolute peak, 500RMS normally) off a 58 amp alternator (Rx7), and it has power windows, real heat, etc,etc and doesn't effect a thing. Not even my headlights suffer. Volt gauge never drops below ~13v.

My point about the cap was: A cap is a like a low capacity battery, but used more like a "buffer". When you have an amp that draws a LOT of current, a cap will buffer your charging system to avoid spikes in current draw. I.e., headlights dimming is a sign. The most damaging thing to the regulator (even inbuilt solid state ones) and brushes is high current spikes. That being said, a 1MF cap should be fine. Hell, they even have 3mf caps for $179 on ebay.

-Bobby

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Sun Nov 30, 2003 2:46 am

screw buying from aircooled.net, its a rip job. just go down to your local alternator shop, and have then re-wind yours to a 75a, its probably going to be like 50 bucks or so.

1970beetle · Post by **1970beetle** » Sun Nov 30, 2003 11:24 am

Bobby74 wrote:1970Beetle: You should be fine for power with a 500 watt amp and a second ~200 watt amp. I run a 1200 watt amp (absolute peak, 500RMS normally) off a 58 amp alternator (Rx7), and it has power windows, real heat, etc,etc and doesn't effect a thing. Not even my headlights suffer. Volt gauge never drops below ~13v.

My point about the cap was: A cap is a like a low capacity battery, but used more like a "buffer". When you have an amp that draws a LOT of current, a cap will buffer your charging system to avoid spikes in current draw. I.e., headlights dimming is a sign. The most damaging thing to the regulator (even inbuilt solid state ones) and brushes is high current spikes. That being said, a 1MF cap should be fine. Hell, they even have 3mf caps for $179 on ebay.

-Bobby

Sir, sorry. I have to disagree. Cap is a solution to the sympton, not the problem. The problem is your alt cant keep up. For 179, you can get a nice big alt, 150+ amps,. You gotta find the places that make the alts, as they can sell them cheap. 200 bucks can get you 200 amps what way, which could run 2500~ watts on a bug.
Maybe guys who are really into car audio, and have extension knowledge, will never buy a cap. Cap= bandaid!

dub.style · Post by **dub.style** » Mon Dec 01, 2003 6:29 pm

I'll probably run a new high powered alternator later on, when I have a better cash flow coming in. I'm currently working on other things more important. I'm just hoping to be able to run a mid-powered amp for a sufficient time before the Alternator goes.

Does anyone out there have any specs or experiences with running an amp off of a stock 1972 Super Beetle Alternator? Or any alternator around that time frame and output size? And if so, approximatly how many watts were you able to put out of the amplifier, and what amp was used? Your replies are much appreciated!

Can't wait to hear the Bass out of my bug!

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Mon Dec 22, 2003 9:37 pm

anyone?

jmillheiser · Post by **jmillheiser** » Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:03 pm

they make a 95 amp alternator for type 1 engines now.

hotbug1776 · Post by **hotbug1776** » Tue Dec 23, 2003 10:11 pm

put a second battery (yellow top) and one of those automatic battery isolators on it. then the stereo system will draw from the second battery, and be charged when the main battery is full. thus ending the low power situation, and providing expansion for the future. you will also be able to run the system without the engine running, and have no fear of being stranded with a dead battery.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 6:11 pm

Speaking of hearing your bass in your bug.... my experience with mine was like this: I had (2) 12" DVC Lanzar DC series subs (competition speakers) in a sealed box in the luggage compartment behind the back seat. Powered by a 250a2 Rockford Fosgate Amp (back from before they sold out to Best Buy). They sounded absolutely incredible and created amazing SPL, but apparently the bug was so sound proof that you really couldn't hear it much outside of the car.

-Pete

ZionVier · Post by **ZionVier** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 6:25 pm

forgot to log in that last time,

1970beetle · Post by **1970beetle** » Wed Dec 24, 2003 6:28 pm

jmillheiser wrote:they make a 95 amp alternator for type 1 engines now.

For how much? And link

Shoptalkforums.com

Will I have enough power-do I need to uprade the alternator?

Will I have enough power-do I need to uprade the alternator?

running amp of stock alt