Silicone Hell

Saltfactor · Post by **Saltfactor** » Tue Dec 16, 2003 5:39 pm

Hey there everyone and Happy Holidays. I shot my bus today (finally) and much to my dismay, fisheyes, bad ones. I don't get it, the whole bus was shot in primer/surfacer (by me) and absolutely no indication of silicone contamination. The good news is the bad spots are confined to the front end and the driver and passenger doors. Oh yea, I had wiped the whole bus down with silicone remover. Anyway, I know I can add fisheye preventer when I re-shoot it, but I don't want to spread that **** around when I sand out the bogus spots. How should I deal with it and how long should I let the paint (acrylic enamel single-stage) cure before messing with it? Thanks, -K-

chris logue · Post by **chris logue** » Tue Dec 16, 2003 6:27 pm

what i would do is wait till the paint is cured enough so that it wont leave a fingerprint when you press your thumb into it,if you used hardener,(dope-slap if you didnt),a day or two should be enough.then wetsand the fisheyes out with 400 grit paper,add a squirt of dishwashing liquid to the water, and make sure your paper isnt clogging.wash the affected areas with dishwashing liquid and warm water,blow it dry,use some pre-paint cleaner instead of silicone remover and use lots of clean wipes. then spray it again.

57Drag · Post by **57Drag** » Tue Dec 16, 2003 6:34 pm

Try a dust(lighter)coat of paint,then you normal procedure...Donald

chris logue · Post by **chris logue** » Tue Dec 16, 2003 6:42 pm

there are also 2 explanations for this problem that i can think of off the top of my head,1 primer is much less prone to show contamination problems than paint is and2 it got contaminated between the time you sanded it and the time you painted it. then again,it might just be that you got a visit from that f--- ing paint gremlin. welcome to MY world!!!!! remember, when you think you've cleaned it enough with the pre-paint cleaner, do it again!

Saltfactor · Post by **Saltfactor** » Tue Dec 16, 2003 8:59 pm

Thanks for the scoop fellas. I'll let you know how it turns out. Later, -K-

Billw · Post by **Billw** » Wed Dec 17, 2003 7:24 pm

It's always a good idea to make sure your surface is spotlessly clean, but to be doubly sure that no problems surface while painting, I always use an additive from PPG called "Fisheye Eliminator."
If you ask for this at any autobody supply shop they should know what you're talking about whether they sell PPG prioducts or not as most other paint companies make something similar.
Add this stuff to your paint and unless you have a major problem, your paint should not only flow over any problem areas, but it will give you a smoother, glossier finish as well.
A little bit goes a long way, and a pint can will be enough for quite a few paint jobs.

Saltfactor · Post by **Saltfactor** » Wed Dec 17, 2003 7:59 pm

Right- on Bill. I made it out to the paint store and got a can of it today.
Should be all good. One question though, product says add 1/4 to one oz. per R.T.S. quart. How do you determine how much to add? Thanks, -K-

E-boyz67 · Post by **E-boyz67** » Wed Dec 17, 2003 11:29 pm

Aloha Salt, don't forget the the fish eliminator will cause the paint not to flow out smooth the way its designed to and thats where some of the orange peel come from.

Saltfactor · Post by **Saltfactor** » Thu Dec 18, 2003 6:03 am

Howzit E-Boyz! For real, I read somewhere that fish-eye eliminator is actually a silicone based additive, thats why it helps the paint flow over any contaminant. I thought it would actually increase the paints flow characteristics. Right-On. I'll watch out for the peel-o. Thanks Bruddah! Later, -K-

chris logue · Post by **chris logue** » Thu Dec 18, 2003 3:59 pm

your right saltfactor, the way fee works is that it contaminates the whole batch of paint. i discovered this way back when by getting a drop on the inside of the cover of a can of paint right after mixing, it made fisheyes all over the inside of the cover. FEE should always be avoided at all costs and should only be used as a last resort, it's kinda like a bandaid ya know? even the paint manufacturers recommend against using it.

Billyisgr8 · Post by **Billyisgr8** » Thu Dec 18, 2003 5:09 pm

make sure you have a good water seperator on your line from the compressor.

Kevin

Saltfactor · Post by **Saltfactor** » Thu Dec 18, 2003 8:03 pm

Right-on. I've got a motor guard dessicant right at the gun and I drain the tank right before shooting. Contamination before was definitely silicone but I may add an additional trap right at the coupler on the compressor. Later, -K-

E-boyz67 · Post by **E-boyz67** » Sat Dec 20, 2003 2:59 am

Hey Salt make sure that the first filter is at least 25-30 feet away from the compressor or it will contaminate the filter quickly and the contamination will flow right to the next air outlet and out to the spray gun. Also that there's a slight upward inclination so that the water stays in the tank. Leave the tank drain open just a little so the water will drain out and not get in the filter.Hope this helps brah and good luck.