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i need some help on taking the rear hubs off a new thing i just got.. the nuts r rusted on and i cant break them lose.. i have sprayed wd-40 on then, hit with hammer to send vibration, tried breaker bar, impact wrench.. i am running out of ideas, any new ideals out there??
i can tighten breaks up, the adjustment star is rusted, put in gear, and sit parking break, but still rolls forward??

help help lol
thanks caspar

If you mean the big nut on the rear drum, then remove the split pin (you did already? ok) and take your 35mm spanner and a 6 ft. pipe over it.
then put all your weight on it to loosen, they can be REALLY stuck.
Get someone in the car to hold the brakes while you do it...

This procedure normally works for me, i'm 180 pounds...

They can take awhile even with an impact wrench, be persistent if you haven't already...what's your impact rated for and how much air pressure does your air compressor create?

If you can't get it off, last resort is cutting a slot in the nut and peeling it apart using a chisel.

if your brakes won't keep it from turning, then get a long piece of flat steel or angle and drill two holes so you can use your lug nuts to bolt the piece of steel onto the drum. This piece of steel should be positioned so that the other end hits the ground when you try to loosen your big nut with a breaker bar/cheater bar.

dog

If you have removed the cotter pin, and your air impact wont do the job, then you need the whacker plate/socket.
Most all VW shops sell it. Its a flat piece of steel with a 36mm(size of nut) hex cutout. It usually has a slot for a 1/2" ratchet or breaker bar, but most who use it whack it with a sledge. Works every time Ive used it. In fact, mine is smashed on the ends from too many 2lb sledge whacks.

Caspar:
Both the bolt the bar that hits the ground to the lug bolts method and the tool that Mattt talked about are good methods. Heat from a torch applied to the nut has not been mentioned. The last resort of chisel and hammer to split and peel the nut has been done sucsessfully. I wish you had my dually 1 1/2 ton 38' Ford Lug 1 7/16" lug wrench and 6' tanker bar.

I have never seen a 36 mm nut that this set up will not remove with no fuss or muss.

K-mann

well thanks to all that reply..i got myself a whacker wrench.. it worked like it should have... i didnt even have to apply any heat. but did use alot of pb and wd-40 lol
thanks matt... i never heard of this before...

caspar

If you are going to stay into this stuff, check into the torque meister. Well worth the loot.

I've done too much damage with the wacker tool -- it is a cool one to have in the kit.

T.

Glad it worked Caspar. Airhead brings up a good point. If you are going to be dealing with VWs for a while, the T.M. wouldnt be a bad investment, especially considering how much they have come down in price.

There is a collection of tools that are really great to go ahead and buy (if you plan on working on AC VW). For me it includes the oil filler gland nut socket, 17 mm allen socket for the trans plug and rear arm bolts, the clutch adjustment wrench and a heavy impact 36 mm socket. The list continues but tools are defineately worth their weight in gold and saved knuckle skin. I have a Makita battery powered impact wrench that will do 75 ft lbs. It is the tool of the century for saving time and effort. It also does a great job of getting stuff together and apart. One of our prerunner pick ups has a York ac compressor on board and it allows for the use of regular air tools directly from the compressor. K-mann

The Torque Miester is the way to go it works on engine flywheel nuts and the rear hub nut. It doesn't fit the bus / vanagon hub nut.

Just curious about the whacker to remove the nut.

How does it cause any damage?

I've used it about a dozen times with no long term problems.