torque value of cv's and trans carrier bolts....

surfbug1 · Post by **surfbug1** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 12:40 pm

large 27 mm bolts get torqued to what number?

and the cv joint torx head bolts....what value?

thanks

al

surfbug

Post by **Marc** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 12:52 pm

166 & 25lb-ft, respectively. Go around at least twice on the CV bolts.

Bruce2 · Post by **Bruce2** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 1:27 pm

Al, the CV bolts are not Torx, don't stick a Torx bit in there, you will ruin them. The drive is called triple square. Snap-On sells a top quality bit, others sell similar tools.

Post by **Marc** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 1:32 pm

That's a good point - they could be Torx if somebody stuck Pennsylvania-built Rabbit CV bolts in there, but that's not too likely.

My local VW parts house sells a 2-piece 8mm 12-pt tool (Taiwanese copy of the kind you pay through the nose for from Snap-On, Cornwell, etc. but get free replacement bits for life) for about $8 and it's garbage, snaps off with little provocation - and they don't even sell replacement bits for it, let alone warranty them.
The other day I was picking up a waterpump for my truck at B&B (a local autoparts house, sorta like NAPA) and to my surprise I found 8mm 12-pt tools that have a large hex on the other end for driving with a standard socket, and they were like $2.50 ea.

surfbug1 · Post by **surfbug1** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 2:06 pm

thanks....

I have a 12 pt socket, don't know the quality I will find out....

also,

the exhaust, I have a gasket set, how do the gaskets match up.....

the metal rings and such thanks

al

Post by **Marc** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 2:56 pm

Are you referring to the heaterbox-to-muffler (or header) inlet seals? The metal rings fo on the heaterbox outlets first, concave side towards you, followed by the asbestos rings. Once the muffler/header is installed (I'd wait until it's tightened down fully against the heads) you assemble the clamp kits around the seals so they straddle the metal rings and flared ends of the muffler/header's inlet pipes and snug them down. If you're using a center-mounted carb you'll probably find it easier to get the 4 preheat bolts started before you tighten down the exhaust flange nuts. I usually leave the heaterbox flange nuts a little loose until after I get the muffler started over them so things can line up better (don't forget to go back and tighten them).

surfbug1 · Post by **surfbug1** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 5:24 pm

ok, that helps alot.... cuz I was gonna ask about those...

but what I mean is the j tubes, where they meet the head, what gasket goes there.....a

and the muffler, where it meets the head...what gasket goes there....

I have an after market two pipe monza type muffler, and j tubes, the better ones so I can take off the valve covers....

thanks

al

surfbug

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Thu Sep 23, 2004 11:15 pm

I just put the metal two hole gaskets on the head surface to muffler/jtube connection.....

hopefully this will be ok....

just have to hook up the wiring, pullys, belt, coil, and a few other items.....carb and some tin....

motor bay is ready with new rubber seals....

just have to prime motor with oil....

HOW DO I DO THAT? I will look here, then post......if need be....

I really want to get this started tomorrow......

its 215 am, I am tired.....

goodnite...

al

surfbug