Im thinking about putting together a NOS setup. Just a few questions, and a list of the parts im going to need.
The nitrous and gas jets are inside the fogger nozzles correct?
Whats a good compression ratio to start with?
A friend was telling me that when he built his NOS chevy motor he clearenced the rings a little extra. Do you have to do this for a Type1?
What amount of fuel pressure must be kept for the Gas side of the system?
10# bottle
2 Nitrous solinoids
2 Fuel solinoids
4 fogger nozzles
12' #6 NOS line
4 tees, flare jet fitting
some extra metal line, most likley 1/8 or 3/16
electric fuel pump for the Nos Gas setup
Later
Nitrous
-
Steve Arndt
- Posts: 7420
- Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2001 12:01 am
Nitrous
Fuel system flow is super important and a lean out is death for your mill.
I've heard the best way to do it is one big Holley Red pushing fuel up front. Then two regulators in the back. One 3.0 regulator for our 48 IDFs and one 7 PSI red regulator for the NOS setup. Run a new 3/8" line inside the tunnel.
Other than that I think you have it figured out. Ask for some ideas on jetting. I wouldn't go above a 50 shot just to make sure it doesn't hurt your engine. If everything is setup right then you should be able to use a 50 shot and never hurt your engine.
You should get a built trans first!
Steve
I've heard the best way to do it is one big Holley Red pushing fuel up front. Then two regulators in the back. One 3.0 regulator for our 48 IDFs and one 7 PSI red regulator for the NOS setup. Run a new 3/8" line inside the tunnel.
Other than that I think you have it figured out. Ask for some ideas on jetting. I wouldn't go above a 50 shot just to make sure it doesn't hurt your engine. If everything is setup right then you should be able to use a 50 shot and never hurt your engine.
You should get a built trans first!
Steve
-
HotStreetVw
- Posts: 881
- Joined: Fri May 04, 2001 1:01 am
Nitrous
I bet it will be difficult to get the fuel line thru the tunnel. I was thinking about running it along side the tunnel on the passenger side. Ive got a cutout new the pedal assembly, maybe the tunnel wont be that difficult. I'll have the tranny soon enought(sometime this summer), just got a friend selling parts from his NOS setup, and though I could pick up parts cheap.
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Darryl
- Posts: 103
- Joined: Sat May 05, 2001 1:01 am
Nitrous
The 3/8" through the tunnel isn't as hard as it seems. I am tackling this mod tomorrow and will be using MOROSO's Aluminum fuel line and screw on AN-6 fittings. Run that with SS braided hose and you're good to go.
Measure twice and cut once!
To get it in, just remove the original line, drill out the holes to the desired size, USE A GROMMET at each end and feed it through. Patience is needed, it's a snap!
Measure twice and cut once!
To get it in, just remove the original line, drill out the holes to the desired size, USE A GROMMET at each end and feed it through. Patience is needed, it's a snap!
-
Steve Arndt
- Posts: 7420
- Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2001 12:01 am
Nitrous
Some fuel line info I have collected over time:
Hi Morten.....
Yes. I am the guy. When building my 67 Cal Look car (featured on the cover of the Feb 96 issue of Hot VWs) I ran two 3/8" fuel lines down the inside of the tunnel. I had the same reservations that you do about them being exposed and felt they would be better located inside the tunnel.
I installed 3/4" (.095 wall tubing in the tunnel in the front and also on the opposite side of the clutch and throttle tube coming out of the tunnel in the rear. I fished the 3/8" line through the from chase and fed it along to the back. Now, one thing I did in front was cut a 3"high x 4' wide square hole opposite the side of the tunnel where the foot pedal assembly goes in. It gave me access to the clutch hook and made the area serviceable. I heliarced some threaded inserts into the tunnel to hold the inspection plate I made over the 3x4 hole.
I also cut an inspection opening on the passenger side of the shift coupler in the tunnel. In both locations I made saddles by cutting the 3/4" tubing I had in half and welding it to a piece of 3/4" wide by 1/8" flat stock that spanned the tunnel under the tubing support. When fishing the 3/8" steel lines through the tunnel it allowed me to rest the gas lines on top of the cradle supports I fabricated and installed.
I used 3/8" fuel line, which I cut pieces of and wrapped it around the gas line where it would rest in the saddles. Fuel line clamps then held the lines securely to the saddles I made. This kept the gas line secure inside the tunnel so they did not move around after installed.
In the locations were the fuel line entered the tunnel in the front and rear I cut pieces of the gas line and slid it down over the gas line and between the 3/4" sleeve in the pan and the gas line itself. This kept the lines secure at the entry and exit points on the pan. I had to spray the inside of the 3/8" rubber gas line to get it to slide on and down around the line between the ID of the 3/4" tubing and the OD of the 3/8" fuel line.
The final result was a well secured gas line on the inside of the tunnel and at the entry and exit points from the tunnel in the front and rear. The reason two lines were run was to make the car ready for the future EFI I had planned to run. If you need additional info or sketches to better understand the install let me know.
Rick Mortensen
----- Original Message ----- From: Morten To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 7:10 AM Subject: Re: Fuel lines
Hi
Are you the same Rick M that replied to my message at the Cal Look message board about installing hard fuellines inside the tunnel?
In the reply there wasn't any email adress I could reply to so I took a chance and found this adress on another message.
Regards
Morten Aase
Re: fuel system
Tuesday, 09-May-2000 19:54:53
208.51.216.100 writes:
I did the same to my '60, just tapped the bung in the bottom of the tank for
(if I remember right) 1/4" NPT and loctited/screws a 1/4" NPT fitting in there
to a brass fuel valve (the kind they use for truck saddle tanks) and to a -6 fitting.
I simply installed a GM fuel filter inline (Pontiac Grand Am), as it had fittings on
both ends to screw adapters into to plumb AN-6 hose on either side of it. My whole fuel
system is -6 teflon hose...I did it several years ago and never regretted it!
Craig Merrow
In a message dated 06/30/2000 6:19:26 AM PST, [email protected] writes:
<<
Hey Mike,
How do you attach and what fittings do you use with that big half inch
line? Did you install it inside the tunnel?
Steve >>
Hi Steve
You know the front shift rod cover between the front end beams?
Well I have a bulk head fitting on that cover that is a Swagelok compression
fitting to -8 or ½" flare.
Swagelok is the brand name of the fitting. You can find these at most good
plumbing supply houses, or im sure Tube Sales has these too. Or a hydraulic
supply place as well. (If using compression fittings, try to use fittings of
the same material as tubing, SS for SS, steel for steel, and brass for
copper, ok almost the same) I pushed the tube in and right before I got to
the end, I connected the bulkhead fitting and cover to it, pushed it the rest
of the way, and bolted down the cover. Now all you see in the middle of the
cover is a male flare fitting. From there its all braided line to the pump
filter and tank.
In the back, I did some light trimming and had the tube exit next to the
clutch tube. You know how it turns up in the back just under the shift
coupling cover? Right there. If I were to do it again, I would have just cut
a hole in the side of the frame horn and come out farther back. Well on the
end of the tubing, I used the same type bulk head fitting as I did on the
front so I could get the compression to flare conversion. From there its back
to braided line to the regulator.
I also had to put some light kinks in the line to clear the shift rod etc in
the tunnel. Kind of a pain in the ass.
Plan on an hour or two for trial and error of pushing in and out.
I pulled the shifter out so I could see the tubing pass by. I also drilled 2
little holes close to the shifter and slipped a piece of SS saftey wire to
grab the tubing and pull it to the side and hold it in place. (tubing passes
by pretty high on the passenger side of the shifter and then goes across and
over the top of the shift rod to the back) I also did this toward the back
too. Then the carpet covers this stuff up.
So does that make sence to you. Hope so
Let me know if there needs more explaining.
See yea
MM
The only reason i used a compression on the tubing, is its a big pain in the
ass to flare the end of 1/2" SS. plus the compression fittings i was using, i
have used them for 1000 psi systems, so i know they would seal and hold up
just fine.
The Swagelok brand uses a 2 piece ferrel that works awesome.
Even flaring regular steel is hard. I guess if i had a hydralic flaring tool,
it would be ok.
Hi Morten.....
Yes. I am the guy. When building my 67 Cal Look car (featured on the cover of the Feb 96 issue of Hot VWs) I ran two 3/8" fuel lines down the inside of the tunnel. I had the same reservations that you do about them being exposed and felt they would be better located inside the tunnel.
I installed 3/4" (.095 wall tubing in the tunnel in the front and also on the opposite side of the clutch and throttle tube coming out of the tunnel in the rear. I fished the 3/8" line through the from chase and fed it along to the back. Now, one thing I did in front was cut a 3"high x 4' wide square hole opposite the side of the tunnel where the foot pedal assembly goes in. It gave me access to the clutch hook and made the area serviceable. I heliarced some threaded inserts into the tunnel to hold the inspection plate I made over the 3x4 hole.
I also cut an inspection opening on the passenger side of the shift coupler in the tunnel. In both locations I made saddles by cutting the 3/4" tubing I had in half and welding it to a piece of 3/4" wide by 1/8" flat stock that spanned the tunnel under the tubing support. When fishing the 3/8" steel lines through the tunnel it allowed me to rest the gas lines on top of the cradle supports I fabricated and installed.
I used 3/8" fuel line, which I cut pieces of and wrapped it around the gas line where it would rest in the saddles. Fuel line clamps then held the lines securely to the saddles I made. This kept the gas line secure inside the tunnel so they did not move around after installed.
In the locations were the fuel line entered the tunnel in the front and rear I cut pieces of the gas line and slid it down over the gas line and between the 3/4" sleeve in the pan and the gas line itself. This kept the lines secure at the entry and exit points on the pan. I had to spray the inside of the 3/8" rubber gas line to get it to slide on and down around the line between the ID of the 3/4" tubing and the OD of the 3/8" fuel line.
The final result was a well secured gas line on the inside of the tunnel and at the entry and exit points from the tunnel in the front and rear. The reason two lines were run was to make the car ready for the future EFI I had planned to run. If you need additional info or sketches to better understand the install let me know.
Rick Mortensen
----- Original Message ----- From: Morten To: [email protected] Sent: Tuesday, February 08, 2000 7:10 AM Subject: Re: Fuel lines
Hi
Are you the same Rick M that replied to my message at the Cal Look message board about installing hard fuellines inside the tunnel?
In the reply there wasn't any email adress I could reply to so I took a chance and found this adress on another message.
Regards
Morten Aase
Re: fuel system
Tuesday, 09-May-2000 19:54:53
208.51.216.100 writes:
I did the same to my '60, just tapped the bung in the bottom of the tank for
(if I remember right) 1/4" NPT and loctited/screws a 1/4" NPT fitting in there
to a brass fuel valve (the kind they use for truck saddle tanks) and to a -6 fitting.
I simply installed a GM fuel filter inline (Pontiac Grand Am), as it had fittings on
both ends to screw adapters into to plumb AN-6 hose on either side of it. My whole fuel
system is -6 teflon hose...I did it several years ago and never regretted it!
Craig Merrow
In a message dated 06/30/2000 6:19:26 AM PST, [email protected] writes:
<<
Hey Mike,
How do you attach and what fittings do you use with that big half inch
line? Did you install it inside the tunnel?
Steve >>
Hi Steve
You know the front shift rod cover between the front end beams?
Well I have a bulk head fitting on that cover that is a Swagelok compression
fitting to -8 or ½" flare.
Swagelok is the brand name of the fitting. You can find these at most good
plumbing supply houses, or im sure Tube Sales has these too. Or a hydraulic
supply place as well. (If using compression fittings, try to use fittings of
the same material as tubing, SS for SS, steel for steel, and brass for
copper, ok almost the same) I pushed the tube in and right before I got to
the end, I connected the bulkhead fitting and cover to it, pushed it the rest
of the way, and bolted down the cover. Now all you see in the middle of the
cover is a male flare fitting. From there its all braided line to the pump
filter and tank.
In the back, I did some light trimming and had the tube exit next to the
clutch tube. You know how it turns up in the back just under the shift
coupling cover? Right there. If I were to do it again, I would have just cut
a hole in the side of the frame horn and come out farther back. Well on the
end of the tubing, I used the same type bulk head fitting as I did on the
front so I could get the compression to flare conversion. From there its back
to braided line to the regulator.
I also had to put some light kinks in the line to clear the shift rod etc in
the tunnel. Kind of a pain in the ass.
Plan on an hour or two for trial and error of pushing in and out.
I pulled the shifter out so I could see the tubing pass by. I also drilled 2
little holes close to the shifter and slipped a piece of SS saftey wire to
grab the tubing and pull it to the side and hold it in place. (tubing passes
by pretty high on the passenger side of the shifter and then goes across and
over the top of the shift rod to the back) I also did this toward the back
too. Then the carpet covers this stuff up.
So does that make sence to you. Hope so
Let me know if there needs more explaining.
See yea
MM
The only reason i used a compression on the tubing, is its a big pain in the
ass to flare the end of 1/2" SS. plus the compression fittings i was using, i
have used them for 1000 psi systems, so i know they would seal and hold up
just fine.
The Swagelok brand uses a 2 piece ferrel that works awesome.
Even flaring regular steel is hard. I guess if i had a hydralic flaring tool,
it would be ok.