Type 4 Oil Cooler on Type 1 Case

AirJose · Post by **AirJose** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 9:35 pm

Is it possible to install a type 4 oil cooler on a type 1 case?
Does it requires any machining?
I have seen some type 1 engines advertised with that change. Any better oil cooling?

Thanks, Jose

barls80 · Post by **barls80** » Sat Apr 15, 2006 10:30 pm

you just have to widen the housing and it will bolt straight up.

AirJose · Post by **AirJose** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 7:21 pm

Thanks, but will it cool better?

barls · Post by **barls** » Sun Apr 16, 2006 8:10 pm

i cannot answer a definate yes or no as i didnt have a temp guage installed but in theory it should by giving more surface area

Hrvoje-ZD · Post by **Hrvoje-ZD** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 6:10 am

I had this conversion on my bug a year ago.I have oil temperature gauge conected on oil dipstick and I did not notice any kind of improvement

.Now I have stock oil cooler again

.

seahag · Post by **seahag** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 12:53 pm

I have done this conversion; installing a type4 cooler in a type1 and yes, it did improve cooling. The main issue is to make sure that after you make the appropriate mods to the fan shroud to accept the wider type4 cooler that you make sure to re-install the "hoover" piece. It makes a big difference. You wind up with an additional row of cooling with the type4 cooler.

500LbGorilla · Post by **500LbGorilla** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 1:29 pm

AirJose wrote:Is it possible to install a type 4 oil cooler on a type 1 case?
Does it requires any machining?
I have seen some type 1 engines advertised with that change. Any better oil cooling?

Thanks, Jose

It may help a little on a stock shroud. YMMV because there are different doghouse shrouds, and different degrees of anal-retentiveness among people doing the conversion. The key is to maximize the airflow going through the cooler. The hoover bit and good sealing weatherstrip help. Some later shrouds do not use the hoover bit (oil cooler sealing frame is the actual item, "Hoover Bit" was the nickname due to the sermons of Bob Hoover), but the goal is still the same.. Good air flow, clean cooler, and air flow directed THROUGH the cooler, not around it.

Jake Raby makes a custom shroud with the T4 cooler setup built in (you provide the cooler) if you want to spend the bones.. it's a nice piece. I can testify to its effectiveness. I can't break 195 degrees on my 2332 so far on oil temp, and it's about to get better now that I have started running thinner oil. Thick oil will just run hotter on these engines, due to the cooler bypass circuit. Pressure going up means amount going through the cooler goes down.

If you want cool on the cheap(er) don't bother with all that.. just full flow it and do an external cooler.

AirJose · Post by **AirJose** » Mon Apr 17, 2006 9:15 pm

You guys are great! I will be building a 1915 w/doghouse , will stick with the doghouse for now and use all the tin, then will see... Thanks for the help, Jose

Bugfuel · Post by **Bugfuel** » Tue Apr 18, 2006 3:04 am

I use a T4 cooler in all high performance T1 engines I build.
Yes they work, and yes they are easy to install. Your success depends on how you modify the doghouse, it needs to be widener long before the cooler so the air won't need to make two 90 degree turns to reach the last rows of cooler element. It won't turn on it's own, it needs to be directed. And as already mentioned, the doghouse has to be sealed so that the air can ONLY go through the cooler.

When it comes to the effect you see when comparing the stock doghouse cooler and T4... if you didn't have overheating problems with the stock cooler, you won't have any with the t4. Hard to know how much better it "works".

Jan

Pepo · Post by **Pepo** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 6:17 am

Hi Jan et al, many thanks for your replies in the past. I have my rebuilt 1760 engine running and so far I am very satisfied. We are here in Florida and our ambient temps are now during the day around 80F/27C.
What should the engine temp be in normal driving? Thanks

Bugfuel · Post by **Bugfuel** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 8:11 am

Pepo wrote:Hi Jan et al, many thanks for your replies in the past. I have my rebuilt 1760 engine running and so far I am very satisfied. We are here in Florida and our ambient temps are now during the day around 80F/27C.
What should the engine temp be in normal driving? Thanks

You get many answers for "acceptable" oil temperatures.

Where you measure it from, also makes a big difference.

I measure mine from the dipstick hole, so I get the oil temperature reading from the bottom of the case where most of the oil collects.

I start to worry when it gets over 100C, but others say it's safe to run it at 110C. It should be AT LEAST 80-90C to get rid of water condensation inside the case, and allow the engine parts to heat expand properly.

Jan

Pepo · Post by **Pepo** » Thu Apr 20, 2006 10:07 am

Hi Jan, thanks for the quick reply. I took the car out yesterday to Tarpon Springs, a touristy Greek village on the Gulf of Mexico, about an hour from our house here. All during this trip the temperature did not go above 185F. I think that is a good temperature range. I have the temperature sensor near the oil pressure sensor. Thanks again, take care and have fun.

daveward · Post by **daveward** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 7:50 am

500LbGorilla wrote: If you want cool on the cheap(er) don't bother with all that.. just full flow it and do an external cooler.

About the idea of an external cooler...does that mean an external cooler that relies on airflow from a moving vehicle is better than an internal cooler with fan-forced air? Or are you assuming an external cooler would be larger? I'm not challenging the idea, I like it, just wondering what happens if you get stuck in stop and go traffic? Thanks.

500LbGorilla · Post by **500LbGorilla** » Sun Apr 23, 2006 9:41 am

They make fans.

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Type 4 Oil Cooler on Type 1 Case

Type 4 Oil Cooler on Type 1 Case

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