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WD-40 wrote:I went out in search for some of the ultra-light bumpers a while back, and didn't really get anywhere.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=175098

- David

Anything from JCW is going to be cheaper, thinner, lighter than original.

ozzie wrote:Anything from JCW is going to be cheaper, thinner, lighter than original.

of course! But I remember seeing one grade lighter.. and they came unpainted from the factory. The catalog had 3 grades: OE quality, "econo", and one even worse than that... I wish I could find that old catalog!!

- David

Just remember that the SCCA is very specific as to what can be gutted when it comes to autocross. Read the rules very close for what ever class you are building it for. As far as front struts go, the 71-early 73 have three bolts on the ball joint and the late73 and up have two bolts. You can put late on early IF you use the late lower arms. It will stick out about an inch farther and more importantly, give you some neg camber for free! Found that out years ago when we swaped only one side after a strut went bad(we were cheapskates when we were young!) If I were building for a prepared class where I could replace glass with plexi, I'd get a 71-72 for the flat front glass. Whatever you build, it's still going to be more fun than just about any other car there. People root for the underdog. That means old VW's every time.

Greg

Makes me wonder now, a `972 SB, setup propperly, with the correct tranny and a nice 2599 type 4 in the back competing in open class. Not many things can touch it.

E

Back to the debate of Super vs Standard....

What about the options available to the STD beam suspended vehicles in the way of torsion bar elimination and coil-overs (alot more shocks now available and all the spring rates a person could want.) would make for a more adjustable setup.

Any takers?

DORIGTT wrote:Back to the debate of Super vs Standard....

What about the options available to the STD beam suspended vehicles in the way of torsion bar elimination and coil-overs (alot more shocks now available and all the spring rates a person could want.) would make for a more adjustable setup.

Any takers?

Got a complete system?

No, but Remmele does. From what I can tell, their system uses Koni shocks. Now if I could only get a part number or two

Does anyone know why they build primarily non 1302 & 1303 models?

They probably didn't think there would be a market for a re-engineered Super front end.

The revamped tortion bar front shouldn't be that hard of a thing to do. Good adjustable coil-overs, something to keep the trailing arms in the tubes, maybe re-designed trailing arms to get some better geometry. It would be neat to see a complete system.

I would like to see stronger, non-deflecting arms made of chromoly like the off-road guys use. Small diameter adjustables like the AVO shocks (hard to get info on them here from what I've found) Maybe even heim joint conversions to eliminate possible binding from the balljoints!

Let's brain-storm to come up with feasible modifications that won't require a sex-change...for originality sake

DORIGTT wrote:I would like to see stronger, non-deflecting arms made of chromoly like the off-road guys use. Small diameter adjustables like the AVO shocks (hard to get info on them here from what I've found) Maybe even heim joint conversions to eliminate possible binding from the balljoints!

Let's brain-storm to come up with feasible modifications that won't require a sex-change...for originality sake

OK, I'll start.
Keep the beam & the way it mounts. On each end of the beam, weld mounts/pivots for upper & lower A arms. Similar to the Heidt Mustang II suspension but with plenty of adjusability in their lengths for tuning. Retain the original spindles and steering box. Use coil-overs for springs.


Adjustable A-arms

Hmmmm. In order to properly support the mounting points, wouldn't we be essentially creating the suspension similar to Volkdent?

What is the inherent problem with the setup the way it is now? The buggy people use/used it for so long.

I think one issue is that there is camber change with loading/flexing of the arms. That's why the chromoly arms are a good way to go I think. That way, this becomes outpatient surgery vs weeklong hospital stays.

What do you think?

I think you're a Doctor.



Post up some info on the Volkdent. No reason to re-invent the wheel. Oh, I'm so punny.

If you guys are interested my mate built a centre mount A arm set up 1303 racer

You can read about it here

http://www.clubvw.org.au/dak_to_the_future.htm

His web site is here

http://www.beetleracing.com/

Barry