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Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 5:27 am
by MNAirHead
Chris..
Before you cut.. let's see some pix.. your donor steel etc.
I've worked heavily with some VW only restoration shops.. chances are there are a few "tricks" they'd use that would go against common sense.
Let's get you rockin.
Timmy
Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 6:58 am
by adrenalnjunky
will do
Posted: Thu Jan 08, 2009 7:47 am
by adrenalnjunky
Yeah - my next project is to finish the narrowed beam I started 5 years ago, and get the pan cleaned up and Por 15'ed. I need it back as a roller to get around in my shop. The body will come after I get the pan/suspension transaxle set up.
Posted: Fri Jan 09, 2009 11:15 pm
by adrenalnjunky
Ok - took pics - yes the car has been resprayed at some point - found overspray on some of the right rear pop-put rubber. also I bothered to run the VIN on the pan ,a nd it's a 1973 Standard pan,a nd a 69 body. Not that it makes any difference.
I took a lot of pics
The full set can be viewed here:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/adrenalnju ... 335655883/
Here's the Window frames.

Destroyed part of donor shelf
Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 12:35 pm
by EvilleT
I destroyed a part of the donor shelf so in order to try to make it work I tried to use the good part of the original and what I could save of the donor shelf problem as you might guess is it is hard to join two pieces together in fact I have about a 1/4"-1/2" gap in places (see attached photos).
My plan weld in places where I have good contact and use seam sealer to fill gaps. There will be tar board etc covering my hack job.
What do you think? Any suggestions? I don't mind ordering another part from Wolfs burg West but would like to make this work if possible.
Adrenal did you find parts I am sorry but I hacked my pieces up prior to reading your post. If you need help finding parts I know of a couple of places one in Oklahoma and one out here in Washington.
Thanks and happy Fathers Day to all
Eville

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Posted: Sun Jun 21, 2009 8:32 pm
by perrib
It is not a real visable area. cut a thin strip of steel weld it in place.
Posted: Mon Jun 22, 2009 8:07 am
by MNAirHead
perrib wrote:It is not a real visable area. cut a thin strip of steel weld it in place.
Perrib has the right suggestion.. at worst you can put some undercoating on it with a texture to kind of hide the area..
If you're a perfectionist type.. you can cut /mesh a strip that spans both sides..
This part of the car is not a very weight bearing area.
Thanks for the update.
Here is my fix
Posted: Tue Jun 23, 2009 7:46 pm
by EvilleT
Welded in a small strip of sheet metal I will use seam sealer to finish job.
Thanks all for the tips

Posted: Fri Jun 26, 2009 3:36 pm
by crvc
Kind of an old thread, but in case someone is contemplating replacing the luggage area, don't do what I did. This website:
http://www.my67bug.com/
Was my inspiration for trying it. He has photos of the body hanging from ropes in his garage. I did the same thing. Then carefully welded in a new $500 luggage tray. Then eventually found when I tried mating the body back to the pan that it wouldn't fit.
When the body was hanging the bottom sort of splayed outwards. I then made it worse by inserting the luggage bay with a hammer, widening it even more. I had to cut out the rack and use a combination of clamps and cable cumalongs to squeeze the body in enough to fit over the pan. Then reweld it in.
Thats when I gave up on the idea of a show quality car.
kevin
Posted: Tue Jun 30, 2009 10:41 am
by MNAirHead
Good idea on the abandoning the show car concept... we'd be talking about a great condition donor car... and hundreds of fitting hours.