Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 7:03 pm
KC, still putting X amount of shims in there?
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Posted: Mon Jun 09, 2008 8:30 pm
Thanks Leather, thats why I keep coming back here. I had a look at this chart and from what it looks like, I would be fine if I could use 6 shims at A and C. It would take that many to fill that cup and mate with the trailing arm boss............I've got to cut the cup down to shim it right.
Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 8:35 am
These are the frame horn extensions, 4" CM 1.5" dia. with a treaded bung TIG welded in.
I bolted the extensions to the motor/tranny mount to keep things squared up then tacked, checked and welded them on.
I had been adding reinforcment under the frme horn. I split a piece of .120 wall I had bent to match the frame horn. I was going to cap it off but with the extensions I was able to taper them off.
Today I am going to tackle this front mount.
I bolted the extensions to the motor/tranny mount to keep things squared up then tacked, checked and welded them on.
I had been adding reinforcment under the frme horn. I split a piece of .120 wall I had bent to match the frame horn. I was going to cap it off but with the extensions I was able to taper them off.
Today I am going to tackle this front mount.
Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 8:59 am
Cycled the trailing arms from 22 degrees down to 22 degrees up. This measures 16" of wheel travel.
Measuring from the center inner side of the output flange on the tranny dust cup to the center inner side of the stub axle I have 22.5" at the top and bottom of the travel range. At the middle (leveling the drive flanges) I have 21 3/8", the axles I have are 21.5. I unerstand that I can pull the dust cups and apply silicone, that will alow for the plunge, right?
Measuring from the center inner side of the output flange on the tranny dust cup to the center inner side of the stub axle I have 22.5" at the top and bottom of the travel range. At the middle (leveling the drive flanges) I have 21 3/8", the axles I have are 21.5. I unerstand that I can pull the dust cups and apply silicone, that will alow for the plunge, right?
Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 9:49 am
KC, what about shortening the axles an 1/8" as last resort you can fill it but what a mess if you have to pull it. Nice job on the extension, what are the plans for a brace on the frame horns?
Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 11:03 am
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... sc&start=0
Using the formula Fortyeye provided in the thread above I have changed the number from 30.5 to 23.5.
Swept back @ 3 degrees
Setting the stops at 22 degrees top and bottom
gives me 23.5
Sound right?
Leather if I trim off the axles do I also remove the snap ring retainers?
Using the formula Fortyeye provided in the thread above I have changed the number from 30.5 to 23.5.
Swept back @ 3 degrees
Setting the stops at 22 degrees top and bottom
gives me 23.5
Sound right?
Leather if I trim off the axles do I also remove the snap ring retainers?
Posted: Sun Aug 10, 2008 11:08 am
I removed mine, have not had any for several years now. Axle floats.
Posted: Mon Aug 11, 2008 4:50 am
Thanks David, I am going to support the frame horns with the cage. I cleaned up the axles and cv's that came off the van last night after I moved the tranny nose mount. Axles look ok but the cv's need a buffing...
Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 4:45 am
One thing that this is going to do is move your weight further back, you might consider putting some up front to add some otherwise could make handling a little interesting at times, not sure but a possibility.
Posted: Tue Aug 12, 2008 5:09 am
After cleaning up the Type -2 cv's and finding nuttin but trash I realized I didn't want to use them anyway, good practice. The Porsche Type -4 cv's are the ticket...22 degrees compared to 17 degrees. I cleaned 4 last night and they are very nice and not abused.
Adding weight if needed is easy.
Adding weight if needed is easy.
Posted: Sun Aug 24, 2008 10:10 pm
Started adding to the torsion housing. This week I am fabbing 4" long inserts for the butt weld on the torsion and stopping by Chirco's to pick a set of HD piviot boxes. Trying to get farther out on the end of the axle @ 22 degrees. On paper this increases my travel from 15.25" to 23.25. Also by rotating the piviot box down I will be able to plum the rear wheels at ride height, 7" above full droop.
That broken bolt below may just lead to drilling out every hole on the srpingplate keeper and going with nylocks. Would be easier to do now while I can still get the ends in the drill press. LOL
That broken bolt below may just lead to drilling out every hole on the srpingplate keeper and going with nylocks. Would be easier to do now while I can still get the ends in the drill press. LOL
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 12:16 am
Are you planning on sleeving the torsion housing somehow?
Inside or outside, but I think you will have problems without something.
Inside or outside, but I think you will have problems without something.
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 4:25 am
You bet, 2 1/4" insert. Plug welded and I plan on an 1/8" gap at the butt weld .fabbing 4" long inserts for the butt weld on the torsion
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 4:52 am
That should work great. Are you going to use your arms to set up the pivots or use a jig? What axles are you going to end up with? Keep it up KC.
Posted: Mon Aug 25, 2008 5:12 am
I have invited 65OFFROADER over from the other site, I like the way he thinks,
Was gonna have to buy axles anyway and its a guess but 27" may be the new length. The other 10 each T-4 cv's, drive flanges, stub axles and 21.5" axles I will be posting for sale soon.
Gonna use the arms to set the piviots as discribed above. I painted in the lower rail showing where more bracing will be on the torsion after in comes back from Rons shop.How i did it.
Jack and level your chassis forward and side to side. Remove suspension completely. Remove clips from torsion and reassemble springplates, bushings, and torsion caps, minus torsion bars. Bolt arm to spring plate, making sure to push bolts all the way forward in the slots, and install clip to arm. Block your wheel at the height you will run off of the stops, also known as droop. Bolt a known straight wheel to your rotor to plumb your tire vertically. Rotating clip around torsion changes camber, and sliding clip side to side changes toe-in. Keep in mind camber can be adjusted individually, but toe-in must be adjusted by working off both suspension assemblys at the same time. Because your springplate bolts are all the way forward in their slots, you are set up to mock-up your suspension with 1/4" toe-in. Good luck!
Was gonna have to buy axles anyway and its a guess but 27" may be the new length. The other 10 each T-4 cv's, drive flanges, stub axles and 21.5" axles I will be posting for sale soon.