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Dang. Started tearing the bug down. That little T3 still has a 2 1/4" inlet. The TD04 should be waaaay better! Making A draw through intake might be a challenge only being 1 1/2" intake. Guess my old pipe style isn't going to work anymore. When I made that my idea was to try to make it as small as possible so there wasn't as much volume. Think that's necessary? I notice most draw through setups have more of a sheet metal rectangular shape and must have much more volume than the one I made. I wonder if it makes much difference?

The outside diameter of the TD4L-13T is 2 1/16th inches or should be. The inside would be 1 5/8th inches.

You should be able to just find a reducing coupler to use your same intake. either that or find a coupler that fits and reduce the size of your intake to be a straight coupler.

That intake also looks like it's made of really thin metal.
You should have a flange at least a 1/4 inch thick but 3/8ths to 1/2 inch would be better so it won't warp and cause a vacuum leak.

Yes it definitely is too thin of a flange. I have to use gasket maker on it to get it to seal. That's why I'm not too beat up on making a new one. When I made that one I couldn't find a flange and no where around me sold metal suitable for that. I think I'm just going to build the next one out of aluminum. I already have some 1/8" sheet, so I just need to buy a 3/8" piece to make the base flange with. Problem is once I buy all the material to build it, I'm not too far off from a pro made one. All the ones I see for sale on websites are for a 3"inlet. I think that's just too far to reduce it.

Good lord! Remind me not to ever do that again. I got some 3/8" plate and made a new carb flange. What a pain in the ass. I think I will plunk down the $25-$30 for one already made next time.

Couple more hours with the die grinder to get it close enough. But now I have a nice sturdy intake. I will have to put it to the belt sander Monday. The belt is worn out and after already being at work for 15 hours I had enough.

Oh yeah. I thought I would mention too. I welded up this" exhaust" and it kept wanting to rust up. So I shined it up with some 0000 steel wool and sprayed a couple coats of clear on it. I will have to redo this once I get the other turbo on it anyway but I wanted to see how it holds up to a little heat.

After making that freekin carb flange I just found and bought inlet and outlet flanges for the Subaru turbo on ebay. $28 with free shipping. I can live with that. I don't want to have to make those damn things too!

Can you give me that link?

Theyre on my wish list too

Is that the new turbo in those pics????

That does not look like a TD04L-13T to me......at least not one off a Subaru.

Now that you point that out, indeed.

Here is my td04l-13t

No that's the T3. I haven't put the TD04 on yet.
The item number for the flanges is 252051138861

The 14412AA560 is the determining number. It is not a WRX turbo.

The WRX turbo is 14412AA360.

I think I mentioned this earlier in the thread but it is pretty close to the same as my turbo.

I'll be watching to see how it handles a drawthrough situation.

I'm not 100% sure I will be doing drawthrough. I'm thinking about trying to blow through the new Holley. Just not sure I want to bother with the fab work since I am going to start building for megasquirt.
The turbo I have is the 360.

buguy wrote: ↑Sat Nov 11, 2017 11:45 am The turbo I have is the 360.

Look at your pic.......it says 560.

Unless that isn't the turbo you are going to run.

I stand corrected.......It is still from a WRX but a different year than the ones I have.
One difference is the compressor outlet snout is longer on your turbo than on mine.
I also found some info that says the compressor inlet is shaped slightly different than the 360 turbo.

It's close enough that it should perform well on a 1600 but it might spool high boost just slightly later than my 1679.